Another Defender 90 on the road

Just to let you know that there is another Defender 90 on the road - well not quite on the road, my son is just 18, has done the "Pass Plus" but is still struggling with the £1500 for the insurance from Adrian Flux!

But this is just a thank you for the answers to the various questions we've had over the last few months in making one good 19J engine out of two poorly ones.

The reason that we had a lack of compression in the original car can be seen at:

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We had a few tweaks to do last night, my son had been working on the landrover and the conversation went something like this:

"Dad, I can't get reverse any more", so I ask, "have you touched anything", "no" is the response, "I've just cleaned up the dif lock control so that it moves freely and now locks in the low position".

We go and look at the car. As he correctly says it now won't physically go in reverse. I ask again if he's messed with anything, the answer was no!

So, I suggest we remove the foam etc. in the gear lever area and look at the movement. We get it to pieces apart from the grub screw being slightly loose (which we tighten), there was nothing obvious.

I then notice that the reverse light switch is screwed well in. I ask if he's moved it. He said, "well it was sticking out a long way, so I screwed it in....." Problem solved, I pointed out that by screwing it in he was effectively limiting the movement of the reverse in the gearbox. So, self inflicted, but a lesson learnt.

One last question! We now have the dif lock lever (and linkages) moving freely. The dash light works (I've tried it), but we can't get it to light when dif lock is engaged. Now, I've seen this question before and the answer seems to be that it means that the transfer box doesn't have it engaged, but could it be the switch? Also how easy is it to get the switch out (how reliable are they) and is it the same type as the reversing switch?

Cheers

Peter (Dad) Robert (Son)

Reply to
puffernutter
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Ahhhh a cut and paste failure!!

Try these l>

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

Is that the remains of a valve sat on top of the piston Peter? Derek

Reply to
Derek

.. and there were no other symptoms ????!!

The position of the levers/linkages is not an indication that the lock is engaged - only that it can engage. The switch is operated by the diff lock selector fork which does not move unless the teeth have engaged. The rotational position of the shafts determines whether or not the teeth will engage. So, as you have said (I think) the levers etc. might indicate that the lock is engaged but it might not be so, hence no light.

First of all prove that the lock is actually engaged (ask later if you need help with that) and see what you've got.

If still no light it could be the wiring, the switch adjustment or the switch.

Reply to
Dougal

Dougal,

Thanks for that. I know that the wiring FROM the switch is OK, as shorting the lead to earth illuminates the indication.

I know that Low/High works, so I'd appreciate your advice on how I find out if the Dif Lock is engaged and I have a switch/electric problem.

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

No, I think it was the two bent push rods on one and a couple of hex screws on the other.

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

First question then ...

Is it sitting with all four wheels on the ground or ......? Propshafts all installed? Anything else in the driveline area known not to be fitted yet?

Remember the first lesson with the reverse switch screwed too far in? ..... something similar is possible, I think, with the diff lock switch preventing the diff lock selector fork from moving and thereby keeping the lock disengaged.

Reply to
Dougal

To check if it is engaging just jack one wheel off the ground and rotate it by hand. With hand brake off and main gearbox in neutral with dif lock out you should be able to turn one wheel, if the diff lock is locked you can't.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

Yee haa - bring on the dancing girls

ouch!

Reply to
William Tasso

Dif Lock is engaged and I have a switch/electric problem.

Jacked up, diff lock off, wheel rotated. Diff lock on, turned a 1.4 turn, there was a click and the dash light came on :-), one very happy son!

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

Phew, so pleased that worked.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

And from my recent experience with the 101:

If you engage the diff lock but it wont go off again when you try to disengage it, then jack up one rear corner with the handbrake off and spin the wheel until the difflock actually disengages. Couldnt get mine to disengage without doing that. Tried reversing and reversing with steering turned on gravel and it wouldnt have it!

Reply to
Tom Woods

This is completely normal. As with the lever operated devices the position of the button/knob/lever does not indicate that the diff. lock is engaged or disengaged only that if the other essential conditions are met it will engage or disengage (assuming that nothing broken, of course).

In your case any torque in the driveline will prevent the dogs of the diff.lock from disengaging. That torque could be either that resulting from driving the vehicle or wind-up. Lifting a wheel off the ground is one way of eliminating that torque. Driving on grass, gravel etc. is not a sufficient condition: a wheel needs to slip. Jumping off a kerb sometimes works as does driving on a slippery surface. Reversing is pretty much guesswork as you are attempting to create wind-up in the opposite sense to that which is holding the diff. lock in engagement. In all cases I've found that going from drive to over-run makes a positive outcome more likely.

It sounds as though you won't really have a problem in normal use. Avoid getting it wound up in the first place - don't use the diff lock on hard surfaces!

Reply to
Dougal

We've just contacted Adrian Flux to reconfirm the =C2=A31500 we were quoted

2 months ago. Now the best they can offer is =C2=A32500 (bummer!)! I.'ve suggested he tries NFU, any other ideas?

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

We've just contacted Adrian Flux to reconfirm the =C2=A31500 we were quoted

2 months ago. Now the best they can offer is =C2=A32500 (bummer!)! I.'ve suggested he tries NFU, any other ideas?

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

We've just contacted Adrian Flux to reconfirm the £1500 we were quoted

2 months ago. Now the best they can offer is £2500 (bummer!)! I.'ve suggested he tries NFU, any other ideas?

Try the Cambridge office, they seem more clued up on Land rover insurance than many NFU offices tel 01954 210007

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

It appears we were given some duff gen in January when we looked at buying the truckcab.

The best quote we've got to date is just over =C2=A32300!

So, one very disappointed son who won't be on the road in the near future.

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

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