Bearing rumble on Series III

I have a Series III which has developed loud bearing rumble on overrun. and I'd like to lay the symptoms before the group.

I shall have to get it fixed... I may have been pushing my luck getting home.

1: Loud bearing rumble on over-run, lessening during engine braking.

2: Changes with road speed, not engine speed.

3: Not affected by clutch operation or gear selection.

4: No change when transfer box in neutral.

5: Signs of propshaft oilseal failure on rear axle (and chassis and read tub and all over...). .

From this, I doubt that it is gearbox or front axle. It may be the transfer box, but I think the rear axle is more likely the source.

I plan to check the wheel bearings for play, but I'd suppose that I'd have to drop the rear propshaft and pull the halfshafts before I take it to a garage.

Reply to
David G. Bell
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What happens if you drop the rear prop off and take it for a drive in front-wheel drive?

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Good point... I haven't got that far yet. I can give it a check, though if it is back-axle, the transmission of the sound will be a bit altered.

Note to Land Rover owning house purchasers, concrete is easier on the knees than gravel.

Reply to
David G. Bell

My new(ish) drive is about 30 foot of level(ish) concrete. I had part gravel at the old house and it hurts and gets down your neck and in your shoes. I also got Mandy's Clio stuck in it once! Dragged it out backwards, at which point it ran down the hill towards me. Mandy didn't have the engine running (doh) so no brake servo. I then used the Landy to pull the rear bumper back out!

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

I recently had a similar problem. A distinctive rumble from the rear axle, it eventually becomes almost a growl. The problem was a worn rear diff.

You may also wish to investigate wheel bearings and have a look at the rear prop shaft U-joints for play although prop problems there will normally set up a noticable vibration.

I got a garage to give me a second opinion for a £10. I then sourced a second hand diff from Boxall Land Rovers for £40. It's the most sensible way to do it. The job is very simple too, just that the unit is heavy so you may need an extra pair of hands.

Good luck.

Reply to
Shaun

David - just a thought, but I think I may have two Series diffs lying around. They may have gone in the skip, but I'll check on my way out of the office tonight. They look in good nick, so might be of use to you. Free to a good home....

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Ay-men to that.

Reply to
Richard Brookman

And indoor concrete is more comfortable than outdoor concrete.

Reply to
EMB

Nope, they're gone...

Sorry

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

Maybe easier to remove the half shafts - this will leave the sound transmission the same - if the diff is really on its last legs maybe both could be an idea, so that not only is it not under load, but not turning. Note that the comments about an easy to change diff do not apply to a 109, as it will have a Salisbury axle.

On the other hand, if there is no oil left in it, just putting some oil in may be all that is needed to get to a mechanic. JD

Reply to
JD

I have the same problem.. I just fitted new rear propshaft with new UJs and the noise is still there. Where can i find the lockrite rear diffs? i cant find a place that sells them anywhere. or an alternative that is not ARB money.

Reply to
Jason Hall

If you're looking at a Lockrite put it in the front diff, then when you're in 2WD with the FWH disengaged it's not doing anything, otherwise they are really annoying rattling away when you corner.

Reply to
EMB

Oil has made a difference to the sound, so I'm now pretty sure of where the problem is.

Yes, it's an 88, so it doesn't have the Salisbury axle problem. But I recall some mention of halfshaft splines... Or is that at the wheel end? And it's a Lightweight...

Reply to
David G. Bell

As I mentioned elsethread, topping up the oil has made a difference to the noise, so I'm fairly confident of where the problem is.

It occurs to me that this may be the time to fit 3.54 diffs. I'd been thinking of switching to 7.50 tyres (needs new wheels, but new tyres are looming anyway).

If I have 10-spline halfshafts the extra cost doesn't seem a great deal, for one diff. But, of course, I shall need two. And I don't have the resources for a DIY job.

Another passing thought -- is it OK to use the RR-type swivel grease on a Series III front axle?

Anyway, are there any web sites out there with a complete account of a diff-change? )

Reply to
David G. Bell

The rear diff is a piece of p*ss Take the four bolts off the propshaft remove the halfshafts and undo the ring of bolts on diff lift out diff at this point you then remember to drain the oil first as it runs down your arms and all over the drive/garage floor and as it says in the HBOL refitting is the reverse of removal

the fronts are more difficult as removing the halfshafts is difficult

2 ways of doing it either strip front swivels and remove the half shafts that way -or- undo the six bolts holding the swivel balls to the axle and ease the whole wheel hub swivel in one unit it doesn't need to come out far only about 6 inch BUT make sure you don't leave the weight of the wheels and hubs etc hanging on the halfshaft also with this method check the nuts and bolts where the swivels bolt on when I did mine the bolts were built up with corrosion they split the very worn nuts

don't forget for both front and rear clean up the mating surfaces properly and fill with oil recheck after a week or so of driving HTH

Andy

Reply to
Andy.Smalley

I found a copy of the workshop manual on my hard drive.

The HBOL quotes the LR workshop manual on refitting.

As you say, front half-shafts will be tricky.

The way my back is, I'm not sure I want to try.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Finally got the halfshafts out after tea, and promptly baffled my father by driving off, sans halfshafts, to see if the noise was different.

It was.

So I reckon that makes it pretty definite.

Reply to
David G. Bell

3.54 diffs are a bit tall really and seriously compromise the off road ability. Try and get some 4.1 diff heads ex Rover 90, P5 etc - they work well with 7.50x16 tyres.
Reply to
EMB

Current situation -- with the prop-shaft off and half-shafts out, it's clear that part of the problem is the pinion bearings. I've obtained a very good second-hand diff from Paddocks, and it's just too heavy a lump for me to handle, so the Lightweight is booked into a local garage.

In passing, I wonder if anyone saying it's an easy DIY job have realised what a difference leaf springs make to the clearance for crawling underneath.

Reply to
David G. Bell

The only time I've removed a diff was from an axle alone, no vehicle. The diff is a substantial lump, and without the truck on a ramp or high stands it would be a bugger to lift I don't doubt.

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

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