Bleeding brakes!!!

Had a similar problem with my SIII 109.

The final cure was rear wheel cylinder replacement, but I replace almost every thing to find that out!

Try to isolate the front and rear system by clamping the rear flexi hose and test the brakes.

The flexi hoses themselves can be the problem, a few pounds each. Although in my case it was the cylinders. They all looked fine and were not leaking but when replaced all was well.

Good Luck, Martin.

Have you tried clamping the wheel cylinders and then bleeding? A four inch (I think) G clamp just fits, but you do have to remove the drum. This is the only way I can get a minimal movement rock had pedal. Jon

I also get a rock hard pedal as well..... Jon

Great!! (NOT)

My hoses aren't flexible, they're solid! Can they be replaced?

The wheel cylinders are reasonably cheap about £7 (12-15 Lucas), but I needed 6 but I think some swb only need 4.

I have been told by a friend of a friend of a friend that the seal kits are now illegal to use, but not sure how reliable this info is.

do a google search for " series brakes"

youll find a hord of posts from myself, as ive had this problem several times.

and its turned out to be , on one occasion, a wrongly adjusted brake master cyl rod, and the other a knackerd master cyl.. i have a brand new lwb master cylinder going cheap if your interested.

try adjusting rod behind master cyl, if no go, then id replace master cyl.

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On or around Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:55:32 +0100, "Pacman" enlightened us thusly:

are the brakes adjusted right?

with air in the system, you get a spongy feeling pedal, which gets harder the more you pump it (oooer missus...)

if the brakes are seriously out of adjustment, you get nothing at all and then get brakes if you take a second bite at 'em. The pedal in this case will feel more or less normal once you've taken up the slack.

Do you get a firm pedal on the second press ?

If so then it's an adjustment problem on one or more of your wheels. The first press of the pedal is then just taking up the slack, the second press applies the brakes. The brake adjuster on each wheel needs to be tightened up until the wheel locks then backed off as little as possible to allow free rotation. A rubbing noise from the pads is acceptable.

If you find that the adjustment won't stay then you need new aduster "snails".

cheers

Dave W.

I read somewhere that trapped air could be emilnated by having the vehicle on a gradient such that it would be encouraged to rise during the bleeding process.

not nesacerily, it could be the master adjusted wrong, only pushing 50 % of fluid first pump, the rest the second.

could be any of the above,

Andy

but id put my money on Master.

lets run a book on it??

Andy

lets us all know how you cure it, will you?

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Thanks for the advice everyone, I will let you all know. Could be a while though, am very busy at work at the min then I'm off on holiday in a week or so!! I'm hoping to update my website as and when I do stuff...

Can you just buy and replace the adjuster"snails" only? Thanks and take care,

Hertriono

RTC3176

Richard

Thanks Richard ! What does 576973(11" drum) differs with 6 cyl./Stage I's ?

Hertriono

The 6cyl/Stage 1 drums are much wider (though still 11"), and obviously have wider shoes (*much* more expensive!!) and different wheel cylinders!

Richard

Thanks again Richard ! Would those 3 items(wheel cyl.,shoes and drum) be a direct fit (or with slight modification) to the 4 cylinder Series backplate ?

Hertriono

No such luck!

Richard

Too bad ! Thanks anyway.

Hertriono