boooiiiiiinngg!

Do you mean an anti-roll bar? If so, yes, but you will get better suspension travel (and more body roll) if you take it off.

Doesn't make any difference to the strength of the springs.

David,

I think he means the BOGE unit...

Does it still work?!? If not take it off ;-))

Neil

Ohhhhhh... The idea of self-levelling on a 110 seemed a bit alien.

You can fit them, bu the ride will be a little harsher. The correct springs are indeed a little weaker. Don't take it off - mine's failed and it's completly ballsed up the handling, the self-leveller really does make a difference!

Richard

weaker?

Heavy duty springs for the Boge system is the standard spring fitted to non levelling suspension. Loaded handling with the Boge unit is crap whichever springs you fit due to the body pivoting around the A-frame ball joint which is pushing upwards due to the action of the unit.

Huw

In the light of another post, I should add that the levelling system consists of an anti-roll bar for the rear axle. This is essential equipment when the Boge unit is fitted. If it is removed the handling transforms from ghastly, bordering on dangerous, to outright criminally dangerous, due to excessive body roll when even partially laden.

Huw

On or around Wed, 4 Feb 2004 15:34:56 -0000, "David French" enlightened us thusly:

mine's got it too, dunno if it works.

and I'm interested in the answer too - was contemplating new springs for mine, and I see that the self-levelling ones are listed as a different spring to the standard ones. I'd imagine that the self-levelling ones have weaker springs, 'cos the self-leveller must do some of the springing. having said that, fitting standard rear springs might be a cheap way to get an inch or so of lift.

On or around Wed, 04 Feb 2004 15:46:59 +0000, richard.watson enlightened us thusly:

I suppose if the self-leveller is u/s, then fitting standard springs ought to restore it to normal.

I've got one of these I think, like a thicker shockie in the middle, with a ball-joint thingy on it. I had my suspension replaced(spring_+dampers) last year, and now the 110 appears down at the back end all the time, and also doesn't handle well loaded. I'm wondering if mine has failed, but it corners brilliantly for a 110V8, so, opinions........

It would help, but the self-leveller really does make a huge difference.

Richard

Twas Wed, 4 Feb 2004 15:34:56 -0000 when "David French" put finger to keyboard producing:

Hey, David, When do I get my face on the afl website then?

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

mrniceATmrnice.me.uk 110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Twas Thu, 05 Feb 2004 09:34:36 +0000 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

I think I'll ask that nice lady at Paddocks what the difference is.. I measured the height from the corners of my front bumper to the floor today, on level ground there is an inch and a quarter difference...

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

mrniceATmrnice.me.uk 110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

"Agrippa" wrote

I had my suspension replaced(spring_+dampers) last

Bit of a contradiction there. Either it handles well or it doesn't, surely?

Huw

I sounds like it - the unit pumps itself up to get the vehicle on an even keel - I noticed mine was playing up when I hooked a trailer on, normally after a few yards the vehicle was back level, but it stoppoed that and started getting a bit iffy on bends. Of course, just to be annoying, its working fine today!!! They are a tad pricey, so it's best to be sure that it really has failed - though how one would prove this for certain I'm not sure...

Richard

middle, with a

replaced(spring_+dampers) last

stoppoed

You put a load in the back, say 150 to 250kgs, then note the height to a fixed point on the body, say the bottom of rear door. You then drive around over a few bumps because the units need vertical body movement to work. Stop, then remeasure to see if the original not-loaded height, or near to it, is regained. Oops, forgot to measure original ride height! Start again then I suppose :-)

Huw

On or around Thu, 05 Feb 2004 15:05:04 +0000, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

well within spec then... mine had about 2" lean at the front. New front springs fixed that though.

it's the back ones that are different.

anyone got any ideas about how to test the BOGE thing? BTW, Böge make shocks mostly, interestingly, the word böge apparently means "bend".

On or around Thu, 5 Feb 2004 21:31:32 -0000, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

will have to play a bit with mine. though I've always been seriously impressed with the handling of mine, so I dare say it's working.

Twas Fri, 06 Feb 2004 07:45:33 +0000 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

The workshop manual says to test the boge thingy by measureing suspension height unladen, then loading it up with some heavy stuff, going for a drive over "undulating terrain", stop and let it settle for a few minutes then measure again, it should be withing something or other of the first number... it's in the book upstairs anyway..

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

mrniceATmrnice.me.uk 110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Sorry, a bit more clearly:- Unladen in the rear it handles fine, strangely enough, as it sits down a bit at the rear as standard. Load it up with anything slightly heavy, and the back sinks slightly, but including the already nose up attitude, this seems to cause enough change in the suspension geometry to 'lift' the front, making the steering light, and high speed laden work interesting. This is somewhat annoying, as the setup is all new, standard LR kit. I was hoping for the 'Aye, lad, thabbut's 'cos they've fitted 1899 series springs by mistake' type reply, as I would like to take some suggestions back to the garage who did the work(other than some form of new career). I can't think of another reason for it to be low at the rear, other than incorrect spring rate/spring , which is why I was also interested in the boge unit, which I know bugger all about. :0)

`Mark