Brake caliper overhaul failure

I hate to admit it, but I have thrown the towel in. Disco 1 rear brake calipers need new pistons and seals but trying to get the outer seal retaining rings in has totally defeated me. Is there a special tool / knack to doing this, as I managed to bend three before giving up? Plan B is new calipers. Wish I'd done that in the first place. Frustrated. Graham

Reply to
Graham Bowers
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They are a bit fiddly but to make it easier you can split the caliper and use something like a big socket to press them in using the vice. If you don't want to split it then you can make a puller using a couple of pieces of 1 1/2" x 1/2" x 6" flat bar suitably drilled at each end to accommodate two pieces of threaded rod and four nuts to pull them in using something like a Series shock absorber washer as a die with a smaller washer brazed inside to locate the ring accurately.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Thanks Martin

Reply to
Graham Bowers

On or around Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:11:48 +0100, Graham Bowers enlightened us thusly:

I've still got the calipers and discs I got to put on that but never got around to fitting, if you're interested.

no use to me on the 110, it's got drums on the rear. The current disco has had new brakes before we bought it...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Would have been, but I've done the deed now :-(( Ask again in about 10 years. Next taskette is to replace the timing belt - can you remember if it had whatever old 300TDI's needed to prevent premature timing belt failure

- and what was it anyway?? Cheers Graham

Reply to
Graham Bowers

On or around Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:24:27 +0100, Graham Bowers enlightened us thusly:

last time the belt was off it was OK - I don't think it's had the mods but if it doesn't chew the belt significantly it doesn't need 'em.

found a timing belt in the spares drawer which I'd intended to bung in with the vehicle the other day... I spose you've already got that too...

I've got the front calipers, vented disc type, as well... was going to swap them with Beamends Richard for ones that fit the 110, but I could sell 'em to you instead. You'd have to buy a pair of vented discs... That's if you've not already done front brakes as well :-)

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Graham Bowers" wrote.................

Next taskette is to replace the timing belt - can you remember if it had

Timing belt used to run out of line and shave the edge off the belt. If it was wearing the belt, a new timing case, belt, idlers and self aligning pump bracket was needed in a kit, and if fitted, case should have been marked by a yellow painted square. If the belt was still ok then just the belt and possibly idlers (if needed) and the pump bracket was replaced.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Yup

I've got new discs and calipers for all four corners. I was only moaning about the rears because they were the first I got tore in-to.

Reply to
Graham Bowers

A bit dark now to go peering under the bonnet - any clues as to where to look for the yellow square pls? Cheers Graham

Reply to
Graham Bowers

On the plate fastened to the timing case in front of the injector pump drive usually. Only just realised, Austin will tell you. :-)

Martin

Reply to
Oily

MArtin Austin doesn't think it's had the mods although I would like to find out definitively. Again, as Austin has implied, the risk is fairly low that problems will happen if it's lasted this long with regular belt changes. Is it possible to tell if it's had the mods by sighting obvious differences between the old and new parts, do you know? There is a yellow dot of paint in that area, but it's not on the plate that I guess is where the aircom compressor drive pully would normally go. It's on the ally of the timing case and is on the top (flat upward facing surface) just outboard of where the arcon compressor would go. Cheers Graham

Reply to
Graham Bowers

I think it was supposed to have an actual square shaped dab of yellow paint applied.

I also think that the steadying bracket which holds the back of the injector pump to the block pulled the timing case out of line and consequently the bracket was replaced with a modification which has self aligning tubes in two of the bolt holes that fasten to the pump. These are like the ones you get in the rear mounting hole of most alternators and should be easily spotted. The original bracket doesn't have these, just plain bolt holes. If the belt has not been chafing on one side then it's not necessary to replace the whole timing case, just the bracket.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Thanks That can be tomorrow's job. Cheers Graham

Reply to
Graham Bowers

On or around Wed, 22 Aug 2007 19:19:13 +0100, Graham Bowers enlightened us thusly:

I didn't find a credible square of paint. First time I did the belt it was a bit worn on one side, which I felt was OK, bearing in mind that a bad one will eat half the belt before it's due for a change. on that one it'd lost maybe 2mm.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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