Changing bushes on a 2001 110

All,

I need to change the bushes on my 2001 110. I won't open the can of worm by asking which brand I should go for (although if you have some _objective_ comments on the relative hardness of red and blue Polybushes compared to SuperPro I would be interested).

What I'm after relates to actually changing them. Essentially, it all boils down to "Is the car going to fall on me when I take the various bits out one at a time?".

Any hands on advice would be more than welcome.

Cheers, Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse
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You'll want the vehicle supported on stands under the chassis with the wheels just clear of the ground. You'll also need a trolley jack to take the weight of the axles as required.

Reply to
EMB

_objective_

compared to

When I did bushes MANY years ago on my then Series 2a LWB safari I took the precaution of puting a very stout packing case fatter than I was under the vehicle 'just in case' it came off the axle stands!

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Presumably, this is because without the trailing arms or the Panhard rod and such the chassis can move sideways relative to the axles. It will still be sprung so if it can't move sideways, it should not fall. Is that correct?

Obviously I won't rely solely on "it should not fall" ;-).

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

It is a right bastard to get everything back together when there is weight on it, especially as it all tries to move sideways on its own.

Reply to
EMB

No, it's because if you take the vehicle's suspension apart while it's holding up the vehicle, the vehicle is likely to move about somewhat.

Big axle stands under the chassis end-pieces so the suspension *isn't* holding up the vehicle, then you can take the suspension apart.

Is there a decent garage nearby?

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

I always used to do one side at a time, with no problems.

Reply to
Oily

I guess that's because old age and treachery always overcome youth and enthusiasm. :-)

My comments were based on a general cross-section of vehicles including Landrover products, and it's a method that I found has worked well on all of them.

Reply to
EMB

It would be nice to still have that youthful enthusiasm. :-)

You can't beat taking the weight off as you say in general but I suppose I'm getting lazy as well, the axles don't move far with the old classic type suspension but I did chock the wheels.

Reply to
Oily

I prefer the red ones and the suspension is a bit stiff and harsh but they last for years. The blue ones give a much softer ride but so do the original rubber types type of which the later ones last quite well.

Reply to
Oily

But as Oily suggested, there is no point in taking the whole suspension apart. Each bit can be taken out in turn, the bushes replaced and then put back in before working on the next bit.

Still would need to make sure the body/chassis can't move sideways, especially for the A frame I guess).

Don't trust any of them. Sorry.

Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

Putting axle stands under the chassis takes the load off the suspension, it doesn't force you to take the whole suspension apart, and given that you have to ask these questions I'd suggest you take the safer route, rather than the one that requires you to take the suspension apart just right in order to stop you getting into trouble while you're under the truck.

You stop this from happening by putting axle stands under the chassis and taking the weight off the suspension!

Might be best to take it down there, better than squishing yourself by taking the most dangerous route to fixing suspension issues guided only by "the man on the internet".

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

A wise suggestion, or if you do have to fix it yourself, get someone experienced to give you a lift.

Reply to
Oily

There spake a wise man!

Reply to
GbH

On or around Sun, 30 Aug 2009 06:47:19 +0100, Ian Rawlings enlightened us thusly:

it's still easier to do one piece at a time. I too would say prop under the chassis with good-quality stands or other solid support, although I've seen leaf springs fitted to a SWB series II, in a garage, by attaching a chain hoist from the roof to the rear cross-member.

Remember that if you jack one end off the ground you haven't got a handbrake any more, whichever end, so chock wheels although it's a good plan to have the centre diff engaged as well.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Sat, 29 Aug 2009 00:43:58 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

the rubber ones work well and cost less :-)

a lot of the mythos about polywotnot bushes is, IMHO, about the fact that when you take a motor with a whole set of more-or-less shagged bushes and replace them, with new ones, it feels a whole lot better. I'f you've just dropped significant coin for top-range poly, then of course you will assume that this is why.

replacing them all with new rubber ones also improves it...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Like I said, putting axle stands under the chassis doesn't force you to take the whole suspension apart, is there a problem with the air in here?

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

On or around Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:34:11 +0100, Ian Rawlings enlightened us thusly:

it'll start turning blue, in a minute. esepcially if the OP starts trying to get his suspension apart :-)

Reply to
Austin Shackles

This is very probably true. However, there is also the fact that apparently (this is what I read as written by "the man on the internet", as Ian put it) the original rubber bushes need a press to be fitted while poly bushes will fit with a simple G clamp or similar device.

Is that indeed the case?

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

I have dismantled significant bits of cars and am not solely relying on the man on the internet for guidance. I am merely collecting info on a bit I have never yet done on that car. And it is obviously clear I will not work under the car without anything to hold it. My questions may seem silly to some, I am however not stupid!

Thanks to all for their views on that.

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

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