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Clutch juddering

All,

If I stop using my 110 TD5 (2001) for a while, the clutch tends to judder when starting from stopped. However, this juddering tends to progressively stop if I use the car regularly, to become normal again after a while.

One reason that I could think of why it might be doing that is oil (and maybe water) in the bell housing that gets centrifuged away when I use it regularly.

I have read on many posts that the TD5 does not have any wading plugs (but also saw a few posts that did mention wading plugs on TD5s). I did notice many bolt heads on the bell housing that could look like wading plugs, or at least drain plugs, but not being sure what they might be holding inside, didn't dare remove them.

First of all, is my explanation for the juddering plausible? Second, is there indeed a drain plug on the bell housing and which is it?

Cheers,

Fred

P.S. Sorry for the long post.

Reply to
Fred Labrosse
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Google 'dual mass flywheel' & get you wallet primed & ready for emptying.

Reply to
Nige

Sounds bad! Any estimate on the price?

Also, given that most of the time it drives fine, and if it is indeed the DMF and not the clutch, any chance of breaking something badly if I carry one like that?

Cheers,

Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

Austin!

Reply to
Nige

??

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

On or around Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:11:32 +0100, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

hehe.

The bill for sorting the disco came to about 750, but it did include and engine oil seal. New DM flywheel was about 300 although I've heard it said you can get 'em cheaper. I put a new clutch in as well, not worth not doing it. I'd advise the same about the engine oil seal, it's possible that's the cause of your judder - apparently TD5 crank seals are known to fail; once you go to the trouble and expense of pulling the transmission.

There's a kit to do a normal flywheel and replacement clutch - beamends has them, 2 types, normal and HD. The kit costs roughly the same as replacing the DM flywheel; but once done, the solid flywheel should outlast the vehicle, and if you keep it long enough, replacement clutch will be cheaper.

Having said that, Mine'd done 129K miles and although the flywheel was beyond spec for wear, it wasn't really noticeable. It made sense to replace it as it wasn't going to get any better, and the cost of doing the work makes it a pricey job if left to do later.

The garage I use is neither excessive no cheap on labour, I think the labour was about 300, plus the dreaded of course.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Which was my initial thought. Would you know by any chance which, if any, of the bolts on the bell housing would be a drain?

So it is possible to replace the DMF with a "normal" one. Does that make any difference ion the driving?

Thanks for all that info.

Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

It'll be at the bottom and is unlikely to look like any of the other bolts attaching the gearbox to the engine. Look for a vertical hole in the first instance.

Just undo the ones you suspect may be a drain one at a time and you'll soon see if they are a plug or an attaching bolt.

I don't think that you can rely on the manual to answer this question ...

The manual (e.g. Owner's Manual 1999 MY) did, as someone else mentioned, suggest that drain plugs are not fitted. However the 2002 MY Owner's Manual mentions both flywheel housing and timing cover drain plugs (TDi engines only).

Reply to
Dougal

Aye, under my old DII there was a hole about 1/4 to 3/8" dia at the lowest point of the bell housing. This hole is on the center line of the near horizontal part of the housing close to the flange where the bolts hold it to the engine.

That was probably me, I've not had a chance to crawl underneath this one to see if it has a plug or a hole. I need to have a grovel underneath as I see it's starting to mark its territory...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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