Correct adj. of RR auto box?

Hi,

I can´t find, although I know I had it somewhere some day, the correct adjustment of the ZF auto box of my 89RR 3.9 cat.

Does anybody know the right settings? I suppose that it has to be adjusted on the lower of the two cables?

Raoul

Reply to
Raoul Donschachner
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I assume you mean the kick down cable adjustment ?

There is only one cable to the autobox, the other will probably be the throttle cable. Assuming that the kick down cable has been correctly fitted and adjusted at the box, the small crimp on the cable should be about 1/8 of an inch away from the cable sheath with the throttle closed.

As you press the accelerator pedal down to the floor you should feel the "click" from the kick down mechanism near the end of the throttle travel.

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

Thanks to both of you for the advice, I will adjust as told. Rangie did go well before, but is now extremely tired because of the much to earyl shifting.

But not for long anymore ;)

Raoul

Reply to
Raoul Donschachner

So it shifts fine now, but, with the little thingy on the kick down cable now approx. 7mm away from the nut?

How come? We changed the gearbox recently, can the cable be that misadjusted somewehere else?

Raoul

Reply to
Raoul Donschachner

On or around Fri, 04 Jul 2003 22:30:43 +0100, Wayne Davies enlightened us thusly:

is that a 3-speeder? It should be in the Book, presuming you have access to the Book

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Sat, 5 Jul 2003 00:27:55 +0200, das_liest snipped-for-privacy@don-moto.at (Raoul Donschachner) enlightened us thusly:

all things are possible...

is the outer cable seated correctly at both ends? that could give you

6mm-odd error.

also, I guess there's no guarantee that the little collar stays put on the cable.

adjusting it to the maximum end of things is more hassle, but perhaps more reliable.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I've just adjusted mine using your directions and I now have about 5mm gap at the 'thingy', I still have a tad free play in the wire (ran out of fiddling time) but I now have a bit of kickdown but still not fantastic - I reckon I'll end up with about 7mm too.

How the heck can you checl if the cable is seated at the gearbox end?? Mirror on a wire?

Reply to
Graeme

Austin Hi,

If you lock the TC wouldn't it be possible to tow start any automatic?

Is there any kit which allows the manual locking up of the torque converter?

Take care Pantelis

Reply to
Pantelis Giamarellos

On or around Sun, 6 Jul 2003 11:49:53 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos" enlightened us thusly:

you need it to be in gear, too.

The BW managed it by having 2 oil pumps, one driven by the engine side of it and one driven by the output shaft. If you got it up to about 25 mph, it generated enough oil pressure to engage the gears and TC and spin the engine.

It was, in fact, an official test for the function of the rear pump, drive up to 30 mph, into N, engine off, ignition on, and put it into D, whereupon it should re-start.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Sun, 6 Jul 2003 17:15:34 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos" enlightened us thusly:

aye, very handy it is. I suppose in principle, you could arrange for another pump. The AP/Lockheed 4-speeder as used in the mini et al had a special valve you could operate to make it bump-start.

mind, you'd never push-start the BW one, it needed at least 20 mph.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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