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Corrosion treatment on Classic RR

I wonder if anyone has some suggestions on how I might treat/remove the corrosion on my Range Rovers' bodywork. Unfortunately the original owner lived by the sea and so do I. This has left the vehicle with a multitude of paint blisters, flaked patches and some holes. Thankfully, the underside was so caked in muck that it has actually preserved the chassis and underbody quite well. I have had all the muck removed and a couple of coats of Waxoil applied.

So the real problem is the corrosion on the main aluminium panels and the usual steel tailgates and bonnet. The vehicle really needs to be stripped and resprayed but my budget doesn't run to this as it's just cost me £1k to put right the bad maintenance of previous owners and this is only the beginning. The engine makes a strange knocking noise, that comes and goes. It could be a tappet but it sounds lower. Each time I get the noise I take it to my LR expert and as soon as I can. However, it's like going to the dentist, as soon as you sit in the chair the pain goes away.

The vehicle had an MOT a few days before I picked it up, but the inspector failed to notice, leaky CV joints, every suspension bush was shot and the rear nearside wheel was loose. I rang the garage and asked to speak to their inspector and asked if, by any chance, his name was Stevie Wonder?... They hung up.

Anyway, the upshot is I can't afford to respray the vehicle yet and am looking for advice for touching up the bodywork to stop it becoming a total write off.

Thanks for any advice Martyn (the better looking one :o)

Reply to
Martyn Cottrell
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In message , Martyn Cottrell writes

For a really cheap (but hard work) job, hand paint it. Before you scream in horror, I've just done my whole vehicle as a quick job to clean it up and from 5 feet you wouldn't know the difference between that and a sprayed finish - total cost less than £50. If the panels are perforated you're looking for new skins at least so unless you're wanting to spend money now a bit of elbow grease and filler will work wonders until you can afford the whole job.

As an aside: If you've not had it long it's worth 'phoning the Ministry inspectors and suggesting they could visit the garage since you were so unhappy with the state of your newly MOT'd vehicle. My tester was given points on his MOT licence during a routine check for (amongst other bureaucratic stupidities) not doing an emissions check on a diesel ... despite the fact that he'd just totally condemned (not just failed!) the exhaust system so the readings would be totally invalid and a waste of time anyway! Just the thing if you do find a dodgy (read 'unsafe') MOT tester!

Reply to
AndyG

In message , Martyn Cottrell writes

If the top coat is going to stay put, bare aly really does want etch primer but if it's a mixture of old paint and bare metal and it's only got to last a year red oxide or a more exotic primer will work. Get some mixed up at a local paint factors ... make sure it's brush finish, synthetic is easiest, Tekaloid is best. Buy a good brush or two, or for a big area 4inch gloss rollers work really well.

Reply to
AndyG

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