Crankshaft pulley nut on 2.5 petrol?

Can't remember the size but it's a right hand (normal) thread.

"Oily" wrote after

Thanks, 1 down and 1 to go. I measured it roughly and thought it was 40mm but the knowledgeable chap (runs a Defender) in our local tool shop says it's 41mm. Seeing as a socket will cost more than the parts I want to ensure I buy the right one.

I've got one of those engines out of an old 110" round the back of the garage, if you really want to be sure I'll measure it, try a socket on it, check the size of the socket and post back tonight. You're too far from me to borrow one otherwise you could, I should have one.

"Oily" wrote

Thanks Martin, I still think it's 40mm but have enough to do this afternoon removing the water pump etc before I need the socket so if you could take a look and let me know tonight I'd be grateful.

"Bob Hobden" wrote "Oily" wrote

Got to the point of needing the socket now but even with the right socket I feel that nut is going to be a pain to get off, can't see how I can get the pulley held tight/solid. Seems to turn slightly against the handbrake/gearbox/engine so it's sort of cushioned so shocking with a mallet hitting on the end of the bar won't work, probably just bugger the nut. Mutter mutter....

On or around Wed, 14 Oct 2009 18:09:16 +0100, "Bob Hobden" enlightened us thusly:

I did the one on the 300 TDi disco by getting a sod-off breaker bar on the socket, positioning it slightly above the chassis rail and turning the starter.

violent but effective. Needs to be a good breaker bar, the first bar I used was a cheap one which broke.

That's the way I did it on the 2.5TD as well (but I didn't break the breaker bar!)

Cheers

Peter

Cheers chaps, first chance I've got to try that is Friday.

I've found a 3/4" rattle gun with a hex impact socket does the job nicely, FWIW. And you don't need to restrain the crank.

But cranking the starter usually works - make sure the breaker bar is well restrained. A 24" breaker bar with a closely fitting pipe over it to double the length usually does the trick.

Failing that, you can fabricate a catch for the ring gear from 3 mm plate, secured with the starter bolts, or if you have a flywheel timing cover, secured through that.

With the wife on the starter and me pushing a long pole to keep the spanner on the nut it came off third try. Thanks to all, bit brutal but effective.

What bright spark designed one bolt from the engine side for the cover, took me ages to find it hidden behind the alternator. The new oil seal was a bit of a pain to get seated in it's place, there's tight and then there's a bit oversized. Now I just have to change the chain and tensioners, the old tensioner appeared to be at it's max according to the manual. Looks like I have to remove the camshaft sprocket to replace the chain I have no doubt that will be interesting too and then I have to make sure the timing is right and cut a new gasket. The joys of LR ownership.