Defender 300tdi Transfer gearbox front oil seal

It can be changed by removing the prop shaft. I suggest getting a manual to see what you are getting into first, but it is very do-able by the amateur. The only real pitfall is to have a good look at the output flange while you ahve it off - if the surface the seal is running on is worn or marked, don't expect a new seal to last very long. JD

: > I have a fair amount of oil leaking from the front of the transfer : > gear box. Has anyone changed this themselves? Is this going to be a : > huge job for a very amateur but enthusiastic mechanic with a sparse : > tool box? Does the transfer box have to come out, or can the seal be : > replaced by just removing the propshaft etc? : >

: > Thanks : >

: > Guy : It can be changed by removing the prop shaft. I suggest getting a manual to : see what you are getting into first, but it is very do-able by the amateur. : The only real pitfall is to have a good look at the output flange while you : ahve it off - if the surface the seal is running on is worn or marked, : don't expect a new seal to last very long. : JD

Thanks Frank and John,

I will have a look at the output flange when I remove it. I have had a look at "Speed sleeve" on Google and found this:

*************** Oil Leaks Let me count the oil leaks: seal on the timing chain cover for the crankshaft vibration damper, seal on the transmission extension for the parking brake drum and the seal on the pinion for the rear end. Makes working under the car a messy job. Replacement of these seals is pretty straightforward, but often time consuming. Because of this, be sure to do the job right by repairing both the seal and shaft surface. Otherwise you will be redoing the job in the near future. For example, the crankshaft seal behind the vibration damper is the source of oil that blows all over the bottom of the engine. After you replace the seal check the sealing surface of the crank hub. It should be smooth with no traces of grooves or roughness. Usually you will see a groove cut by the old seal. Repair procedure for this damage use to be to braze new metal to build up the surface, then turn the hub down to the correct diameter. Good luck on finding a shop that knows how to do this type of work. Enter "Speed Sleeves". Today, you can use a speed sleeve, a very thin steel sleeve which is pressed over the damaged shaft area. This provides a factory finish for the new seal to mate against. They work great and most engine rebuilding shops have the equipment to correctly install them. They will also work on the your parking brake drum and rear end pinion seals. Installation on these parts is definitely a task to job out to your machine shop. They require a special press to install. Also the machine shop will have (or can get) the proper sized sleeve for the part to be repaired. Once completed, you can be assured you seal repair job will provide years of leak free service. **************** It sounds expensive, but worth it if you want the seal to last. Thanks for the tips.

Regards

Guy