Defender 90 prop shaft question

Hi Graeme

You can buy the UJs, you can also buy a whole new propshaft too. If it is the front prop shaft then you could just unbolt it and try a short test drive to see if that solves the problem - [I may be wrong about the next bit as I ain't got a Defender] if you are driving on tarmac wouldn't the Defender be operating on the rear axle only??

Graeme

On or around Thu, 9 Feb 2006 21:08:29 -0000, "Graeme" enlightened us thusly:

You'll need to lock the centre diff.

Joints are cheap as chips. changing them is a bit of a pain without a decent-sized vice to press the bearings with. or a press, of course...

I can do a joint-swap in under an hour from putting the vehicle on the yard to driving it off again. If I had a lift, I'd save about 10 minutes for not jacking and crawling on the floor. But I have had a bit of practice...

You can test drive if you engage the diff lock with a propshaft removed. If the vibration stops with one of the props removed then that one is the culprit. It will probably be showing rust around the joint.

HTH Martin

Squeal doesn't sound like a propshaft UJ.

It's not a dirty, partially applied or maladjusted park brake is it? Try very gently partially applying the brake whilst moving to see if anything changes.

Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

A bit of a digression, but can a Hi-Lift jack be used for this?

Just something that occurred to me...after I'd got someone to do it for me, of course! (I've no press or vice but I do have a jack!).

Derry

Not sure how. You need to squeeze. It shouldn't take multi-tons to push the bits in and out - even manky ones on a 101 IME. You might even get away with a G clamp.

Steve

Little pneumatic hammers work wonders on many bearings too, with the right tool in the hammer - I often find a bearing that a vice won't move flies across the workshop in seconds when the air gun is used.

K

Squeak, squeak, squeak on take off and vibes at 40 mph, classic knackered u/j symptoms, all you need is a pair of circlip pliers, a good vice to hold prop, a small socket and a copper faced hammer. Make sure you mark which way round it came off, it's a balanced assembly.

Martin

IME a G clamp isn't up to the job.

I'm 90% certain from your description that it will be as you man in the know says. To make sure, chock the rear wheels, handbrake off*, jack up one front wheel and, making sure you don't squash yourself, rattle the propshaft - you will be able to see/feel the UJ if it's knackered.

*if you check it with the wheels on the ground and/or the handbrake on the propshaft will be under load and all may well apear to be ok when it's not.

From the sound of it, the UJ will be well knackered. If it is suspect take the prop off and check the condition of the yoke, if that has got damaged then a new prop is required.

300Tdi, or more accurately R380, Defenders are particulary prone to the rear front propshat UJ failing, and it needs fixing sooner rather than later as it is not uncommon for the yoke to fall to bits and the propshaft come adrift.

Richard

On or around Fri, 10 Feb 2006 14:29:42 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

it'd have to be a big G clamp.

typically, I find a 5" or 6" engineer's vice is the best bet.

On or around Fri, 10 Feb 2006 00:41:35 +0000 (UTC), "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

ah, now there's a thing. You need to re-assemble the shaft the same way round if you take the sliding joint apart, yes. Some of them have marks, if not, you need to make marks.

But the propshaft is balance off the vehicle. It's balanced in itself. fitting it 180 degrees out on the flanges shouldn't[1] make any difference. they don't assemble the vehicle and then balance the shafts etc. Some shafts have non-uniform stud patterns that only fit one way round, but not LR ones IME which can go one of 2 ways.

[1] I use the word advisedly...

"Austin Shackles" wrote

That's not what I had in mind. Apart from lining up the splines you can rotate the yoke to the sliding member on either end when you dismantle the U/Js and this you must not do, as I said previously it's a balanced assembly, including the the end castings.

It's an easy and inexpensive job but if you've not done one before there are dangerous pitfalls and it would be better left to your 'man in the know' and as Richard says if there's any damage to the yokes you will need another prop.

HTH Martin

Martin and all the others who commented, thank you.

Thanks all for the very helpful replies in relation to this problem

Graeme

Thanks to the group who gave excellent advice regarding this question. The UJ was to blame for the symptoms. My man in the know, bless him, showed me the old compared to the new, well and truly fekked! Only one of the four shafts had any needle rollers intact the others were in bits or dust. No wonder it was complaining!

Thanks again to all for the advice.

Graeme

I only wonder how it could have got this bad in the first place before you decided to rectify it!?

Unfortunately the UJ in question (rear of front prop on 300Tdis) is well known for failing very rapidly once it starts. Many, many very longterm LR owners have been caught out by this, as we're used to being able to leave dody UJ's "until the weekend".

Richard

Richard, thank you for sparing my blushes on this one. In my defence the symptoms did occur very rapidly one evening i went out and thought what the hell is that? It was as if the UJ had failed there and then not over a long period of time. So any other group members who, like me are new to the fantastic world of Landies, beware a rumble & squeek from under your seat & get it sorted tout sweet....................................................................... ............................................................................ ................................"Alright i'll get me coat, Charlie start the car!" :-)