Defender CV joint noise?

Just replaced the swivel housing on my disco and to my suprise it wasn't to bad a job. The CV is normally half submerged in EP90 so I would have thought it would have been in good nick. Mine was nearly dry for quite some time before I noticed the fault and it is still OK. I'd check other areas first.

Peter S

Well, first check if there is any oil in it - if not then that is probably the problem! JD

On or around Sat, 8 Nov 2003 19:21:39 -0000, "pieter" enlightened us thusly:

yep. Mind did the same. Probably either no oil in it now or in the past. When replaced, mine had about 2-3mm radial play in it, though it was otherwise intact. New one from Paddock in there now, with no play, no clacketyclack on turning at full lock either. Paddock's 56-quid special, will see how long it lasts. Looked perfectly OK. Local LR bod reckons they're not bad, and since it's only a matter of about half an hour to change 'em, the fact that they're cheap means that if it lasts for about 20K miles I'll be well happy.

not very likely, though they can break. Most likely failure, I suppose, is for one of the balls to escape.

ver' easy, if yer any good at these things.

Jack under affected axle end, remove wheel, then lift quite high to stop diff oil from escaping.

remove:

brake caliper and balance it out of the way rubber end cap circlip, spacer washers driving member from hub (5 bolts) Hub locknut, tab washer, hub bearing nut* Hub Pull half-shaft from diff.

Grip half-shaft in vice, impinge on CV joint with large rubber mallet 'til it comes off the shaft.

replace spring clip (new one should come with the new CV joint) Push CV joint back on (small screwdriver to poke the spring clip aid re-assembly) until it clicks in place.

re-assembly is the reverse of removal, remember to check the hub seals (may need replacing) and to replace the gasket under the driving member or seal it with sealer.

The book says use a new lock washer. This is only strictly necessary if the old one has been used about 3 times. If you can find a bit of the washer which as never been bent, it's OK. Don't rebend it where it was bent before, it could crack.

and don't do what I did, misreading the axle number and ordering the wrong CV joint...

• I don't have a hub nut spanner, but instead use an engineer's clamp. Hub nut spanners are cheap though, and worth having.

Thanks Austin, helpful description.

I will have someone drive in a tight circle with me walking next to it to make sure that the noise is indeed coming from the CV and if so go ahead with the Paddock CV.

Pieter

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I've had CVs fail with no warning and they're often not in for long. That said I have had 'clacking' noises on full lock though. Check you're tyres aren't touching the radius arm on full lock. With a good mud tyre or better Simex the lugs can make a hell of a rattle if they are too close. Simple to fix though :-)

Trev

Or put it in Low box in a car park, into reverse then get out. Works a treat as long as you have plenty of room. But don't lock yourself out! :)

PS: I take no responsibility if anybody runs themselves over using this method

On or around Sun, 9 Nov 2003 20:36:25 -0000, "David French" enlightened us thusly:

not so clever in an auto, either. it goes faster than a manual one. However, given a big space... drive slowly at full lock and lean out the window listening. mechanical "clack-clack-clack" is almost certainly a CV though.

Or stones in the tyre.

D

On or around Mon, 10 Nov 2003 08:01:45 -0000, "David French" enlightened us thusly:

only if you've a lot of 'em.