I bought an excellent secondhand set for £25 each which is about half the new price. In fact, I got rather more than that as the scrapper merely took an angle grinder to the axle and removed them that way!
The swivel housing are chrome plated and when they are scored and pitted they are fit only for the scrap heap. The guy I got the above from does a lot of off roading so he buys scrap axles and removes the CV joints from them which he can use. He has no use for the swivel housings. £25 each seems to be the going rate.
i thought the swivel balls went into the swivel housing.
so the housing is a different unit than the chrome ball. or am i totaly wrong, paddocks do the housings at 48 + vat each. but no mention of the chrome ball. yet under the series section it mentions the chrome ball.
explain it to me please.........
andy
_______________________________________________________________________________ Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com - Accounts Starting At $6.95 -
"Austin Shackles" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
enlightened
Teflon ones are rubbish. I had to replace by my dealer one on my 110 Td5 with 30,000 miles. The teflon coating dissapears, and you get blank metal balls, who completely rusts away on the other side of the oilseal...... No warranty either... The dealer says pitted swivels are normal weir and teir.... But after one and and half year just normal road driving.....???
I'll leave that to someone else. I thought they were the same thing but what the hell do I know?
Your round shiney things are all pitted and scored and you want to replace them or refurbish them. Right? The latter is not economical. So replace them. New chromed or tefloned or secondhand. Your choice. I'm mean and poor and live in Scotland so I went for secondhand and that worked fine for me, plus I got free "extras". Don't forget to get a new pair of seals when your order your new balls. (That's oil seals, not the aquatic type mammals).
The cup shaped thingies the shiney round watsits fit into are unlikely to require replacement which is just as well as nobody seems to have a name for them anyway. Come to think of it, that's probably why!
The chrome on my '84 110 is like new. The secret is continuous use. If the housings are serviced to make sure they don't go short of oil [it can be sucked into the main axle] and the vehicle is used at least daily, then they will not rust. Unless you get a bad batch of chrome.
Mine is mainly used off road or rough road and gets washed once a year if it is lucky. No problem with my balls, which are big, shiny and full of slippery stuff.
"Huw" wrote in news:40c377cf$1 snipped-for-privacy@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com:
The balls on the 1997 300Tdi I purchased were completely knackered. Rusty and badly scored. The seals were also done and oil ran straight through and it is a miracle the CV joints were still intact.
Before I got it, the vehicle was a gamekeeper's Land Rover in an area where sandy soil predominates. I also got about a ton of top soil out of the chassis when I applied the hose pipe! I'd suggest a lot has to do with where the vehicle is used, as well as age.
The replacement balls, purchased secondhand, were perfect but of the old type with the drain plug in the bottom. So age doesn't seem to have much to do with it though logic agrees with the regular use theory.
BTW, how do you check for oil level in the swivel housings? Full lock and a dip stick?
Sand may be particularly abrasive. Mine only has mud, salt roads and mainly cow shit to wade through.
Yes, full lock so the ball is out as far as possible from its socket on the side to be checked. Depending on type, the oil should be up to the thread on the filler/level plug. Use a welding rod or a piece of stiff wire as a dipstick. There is an alternative, which is to use a semi fluid grease in there.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.