Defender Td5 electric window failure

Welcome back! It's certainly been some time. Hope that you're well.

Ah, the joys of sorting a 'new' LandRover.

When you say that the winder is not working, I assume that it's a case of the motor that isn't running rather than a motor that runs but a window that doesn't move.

I've only got a 2002 MY circuit diagram but I imagine that it'll be close to what you have. Other than what appears to be a very convoluted earth path from the motor it seems fairly straightforward - at least no ECUs on this picture!

Is your circuit diagram a good one?

Go back to basics and check through starting at the output from the satellite fuse box. You've proved the input to this fuse box if the other side motor works. Once you've proved volts at the motor input I'd suggest taking the other terminal straight to earth and see what happens. Remember that which motor terminal is live will depend on the switch position. There's no power at the motor in the middle switch position. If the motor works you'll have to correct an earth fault (which could be in the switch, itself), otherwise you've got a dead motor. Confirm by isolating and putting 12V directly across the motor.

Good luck.

Thanks, Dougal! Hope I won't need to post here much , but I thought the cause of the vibration interesting and not one any of the local mechanics had heard of before. It was my tyre fitter who pointed out that castellation is caused by shock absorbers and a mechanic who pointed out that the irregular wear would cause vibration. I had just purchased a brand new set of LR wheels and tyres so tried them and over 50% of the vibration disappeared.

The electrc window winder is sorted! Or it will be tomorrow. I phoned the local LR dealers with a query about the tell tale light display for the hand brake just above the steering wheel and thought to ask, "Is there a mechanic handy, by any chance?" I asked if there was a generic fault with electric window winders and without hesitation he said, "It will be a broken wire between the door and the door post, inside that little rubber sleeve thingy". I went out to check and he was spot on. The wires harden with age and as they flex every time the door is opened and closed, they break inside the rubber sleeve. It is easy enough to push the sleeve back from one end or the other. In fact there is one broken wire and a second with core intact but the outer insulation cracked right across. So I have a soldering job to do in the morning!

Incidentally, the tell tale light for the hand brake does not come on in the dash, as I said above. I got a new bulb (or so I thought) the other day. Opening up that area requires removing four torx screws but the actual lights appear to be tiny diodes about 2mm cube on a circuit board. No bulbs at all. So if one fails, it means replacing the whole board (about 4cm x 200mm?). The storesman mentioned, "They are expensive". I don't know how much as I didn't ask. I can do without the light on that information! Anyway, the fault may be at the handbrake end so nothing lost there.

Thanks for the quick response. This vehicle is gradually becoming a joy to drive. Next, I might need to tighten up the swivel preload as the steering is a bit soft.... Can't keep my hands to myself!

Derry

Have you checked that the switch/adjustment/wiring for it is OK? It could still be a cheap repair!