Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
Nige
-- Subaru WRX Range Rover LSE (Bob)
'"gimme the f*ckin' money"
off to look at a P38
experience here!!!
Without taking the lid off ?
Steve
Yeah!!! I dont the seller will like ripping his head off!!!
There must be some definitive way?
Nige
-- Subaru WRX Range Rover LSE (Bob)
'"gimme the f*ckin' money"
...and Nige spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
The only way I know of is to ask the seller to have the engine cold when you arrive, and check the water level. Then take it for a good run to get everything to normal temp, return to base, let it cool down and check if it has lost any. Significant water loss, residual pressure in the system, overheating on the test drive are all bad signs. The only way to know for sure is to take the head off and look, but water level is a good indication.
Bear in mind that even if it's a bad'un, there are solutions - new short engines aren't ridiculous money, and someone (ACR?) does top-hat liners that cure it - PROVIDED that you get the car for a price that factors this in. If not, keep looking - there are plenty about, and going for daft money in some cases. Also, remember that although people bang on about this problem, it's still not common. I bought my P38 at 43K miles and sold at 87K, and it never overheated (even towing a caravan across France in a heatwave) and never used a drop of water.
If you get a good'un, it's a brilliant car. Did the RRC not turn out as well as you had hoped?
I'll second that, especially the bit about being cold initially. You can also whip the plugs out and look for one that appears considerably cleaner than the rest, much the same thing as lifting the heads and seeing one piston that appears "washed" clean with very little carbon. You could always borrow some sort of endoscope thingy and look into the combustion chambers for signs of washing...??
Remember though that the system will be pressurised even if the engine is perfectly good.
Also available from Lund Engines down in Devon, and most likely any other decent engineering shop almost anywhere else in the country, as the liners are available readily. Be warned though, an exchange top-hat linered bare block only will set you back £800+. If you find anyone doing them cheaper, please let me know!
Badger. B.H.Engineering, Rover V8 engine specialists.
Oh yeah, i love it, but i notice the prices of P38's are silly right now, I'm only off for a look, but you never know!!!!
Might just start a RR collection!
Nige
-- Subaru WRX Range Rover LSE (Bob)
'"gimme the f*ckin' money"
Maybe the suggestion was to let the seller know that was likely to happen if the specified fault was found!
On or around Sun, 8 Jan 2006 18:50:55 +0000 (UTC), "Badger" enlightened us thusly:
especially, in fact. It's designed to be pressurised.
it's when it pressurises to the extent of blowing coolant out that you have troubles...
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