The wheel carriers can be had for 35 quid on ebay, at least that was the going rate a couple of years ago when I replaced mine. They are prone to rotting to the extent I'm surprised they were never subject to a recall to be replaced by galv units.
It wouldn't be fun to be driving down the M1 and have a spare drop off in front of you.
Seems to be around a tenner these days - with the nearest being 70-odd ebay miles from here. I'm inclined to think that cleaning/fixing up the existing unit is gonna be less hassle.
Besides, having the tools around to clean up the threads on wheel studs is proably a good-thing (tm)
or stainless?
t'is never fun driving down the M1 :)
seen a wheel-barrow (builders variety) bounce off a trailer on the M25 - already noted it looked dodgy and was maintaining room-to-manoeuvre-just-in-case distance when it popped over the back
Seems to be fairly sound - no worrying movement detected with me hanging off it at any rate.
Remove door card... Undo six nuts... remove old carrier... replace with new. Ta da! access for the gorillas amongst us can be tricky but not impossible. Hardest bit is not breaking the ofuckit clips on the door card. If your current carrier is solid then I can see your logic mind.
Cool.
Personally I'd never re thread a wheel stud / nut. Just replace them complete. They are a compression fit for studs in to their carriers. If it needs re threading then it's already been compromised with regards to safety. I can't remember but I think the spare wheel carrier has pressed studs.... may be a bit of weld too. Can't fully recall.
How about you pass by a friendly engineers and brass them or for a drink in return for the job... only take a few minutes and in reality they are tools that you should most likely never need again once purchased.
First off, you might want to try cleaning the threads with a DIY solution:
Wire brush all the way round with a good quality wire brush on a drill, Slot a nut of the correct size lengthwise (parallel with the bolt), with a Dremel-type tool. if you run that up+down the bolt with a thin oil or WD40 as a lubricant (Plus Gas even better) it will help to reform the threads.
I'll readily admit though that this won't work in the worst cases, but running a tap through rust won't leave you with pristine threads either.
Am I right in thinking the damage is where the wheel's got loose and vibrated on the bolt? If the damage is at the outer end the slotted nut might actually work better than a die because it won't start to cut immediately. You need to get whatever running in the existing thread, and that could be tricky.
If all else fails, can you cut the bolt/stud off and weld on another?
S.
PS: I'm with Lee: don't mess with wheel bolts/studs. if in doubt, replace. It's really not worth the risk, and anyway they're high-tensile steel, not mild, so they won't cut readily either.
Is Disco 1 different from Disco 2? On Disco 2 these are just studs with heads passing through and tack welded to the carrier. It's not worth messing around with a die unless the damage is trivial. I'd be tempted to chop off and replace if suitable replacements can be found. You should be able to track down headed studs/bolts with M14 x 1.5 threads somewhere. Whatever you find wants to be grade 8.8 or better. Start by pricing up a LR wheel stud - it might be one of their cheaper ones!
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