Disco 1 How can I?

Have you tried turning the lights off? Works for me.

:-)

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

Hmm. I think the beep is a 'lights on' warning - well, it is on mine. It's quite easy to get to the ignition barrel (3 turnbuckles under the steering wheel) but I don't know if it will help.

If (and it's definitely an if) yours is the same as mine and should only beep when you have the lights on then there is perhaps a bugger up in the switch that detects the lights are on. I don't know where that comes from (it could be direct from the light switch or with a relay from just about anywhere).

If it really is a sensor to test whether the key is physically in the ignition then I guess there will have to be a lead from the igntion barrel. On mine the ignition barrel just fits into the rotary ignition switch, without any electrical connections. If you find such a lead you then need to work out whether it is a 'push to make' or 'push to break' switch.

Is your interior light working as you would expect it to? I'm casting about for ideas, as you may have noticed. But the 'door open' signal will come from the door switches, which also drive the interior light. It would be common sense to drive the beeper from the interior light circuit.

I'll try to find my WSM and see if there is owt in there about it...

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

FWIW, that sounds normal, it's to stop you leaving the keys in the ignition I suppose...

In line with the KISS principle, have you consiered taking the key out of te ignition before opening the drivers door or shutting the door before you put the key in the ignition ?

The problem is that the sounder is part of the "Multi Function Unit" that, as it's name suggests, controls a host of functions including: Heated rear screen, Heated front screen, Courtesy lights, Side and headlights, Rear fog guard lamps, Headlamp power wash, Front wipers, Rear wash/wipe...

You could disconnect the circuit from the ignition switch (pins 3 and 4 on the connector) BUT this MAY stop any of the above circuits working properly.

The wiring colours depend on the exact model but will probably be white and purple to pin 4 or pin 6 (dependant on the ignition interlock option). At the MFU end the signal goes to pin 21 (white and purple).

I haven't actually been able to find any mention of this "feature" in the ETM which is why I'm assuming it's part of the MFU as that is the unit responsible for the lights on warning and seems to be the only thing connected to the "key in ignition switch".

HTH

Dave W.

Surely so long as the key is in position "I" the radio should work, without beeps or anything? (it does on mine!)?

I can't remember which key position is which but I worry about flattening my battery if the glow plug heater is on. Is that "I" or "II" ??

Someone will now tell me that I have completely misunderstood how my electrics work.... but that's the problem.... there's just too much electric stuff on the beast!

Judith

Glow plugs etc are activated with key position "II", so your radio should work with the key in position "I" without fear of flatening any battery!

Hi Dusty, the annoying beap is activated by the drivers door "courtesy light switch". Simplest solution is to remove philips head screw holding switch in place, gently ease the switch out . You will see that the light/beeper are activated when the switch connects the wire to earth.

Simplest solution is to replace metal screw with nylon or similar and that way the switch is isolated from earth, as the screw is whats makes the connection.

A slightly more complicated solution is to put a switch in the wire that connects to the door switch-this way you can turn the system on/off-this way you can still use the interior light at night etc.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers

Phillip Simpson

They do. They are only on for a few seconds prior to starting the engine.

How about just placing some adhesive tape over the courtesy light switch plunger, it'll stop the light working as well, but its easy to restore operation if required.

Oh I see! I thought you had a terribly posh Series III Landy. I used to have curtains in mine....but that's another story.

Judith

A V8i ? Very funny.... but I think I'll decline!

Thanks. I wanted to know the answer too.

Judith

In case anyone is interested I solved the problem of the annoying 'beep' when the drivers door is opened for any length of time. Please see below: -

I changed the driver's door switch from LR's fitting to a new switch for a Volvo 940. The problem is now solved. No annoying 'beep' The only 'mod' I had to perform was the enlarging (slightly) of the recieving hole. I extended the hole upwards to accept the new switch, nice tight fit. The Volvo switch has 2 male tangs, as opposed to LR's one, however, this is not a problem, use the right hand tang on the Volvo switch (screw hole uppermost) refit the unit - job done. To operate - open door - 'beep' starts, push switch in and turn switch 1/4 turn clockwise, 'beep' stops. The switch resets itself back to the norm when door closes.

I hope this helps anyone who is annoyed by this 'beep'. DustyV

In case anyone is interested I solved the problem of the annoying 'beep' when the drivers door is opened for any length of time. Please see below: -

I changed the driver's door switch from LR's fitting to a new switch for a Volvo 940. The problem is now solved. No annoying 'beep' The only 'mod' I had to perform was the enlarging (slightly) of the recieving hole. I extended the hole upwards to accept the new switch, nice tight fit. The Volvo switch has 2 male tangs, as opposed to LR's one, however, this is not a problem, use the right hand tang on the Volvo switch (screw hole uppermost) refit the unit - job done. To operate - open door - 'beep' starts, push switch in and turn switch 1/4 turn clockwise, 'beep' stops. The switch resets itself back to the norm when door closes.

I hope this helps anyone who is annoyed by this 'beep'. DustyV