disco II new front axle

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Have you got this month LRO? Goodfeature on The Td5.

On or around Mon, 2 Mar 2009 10:21:59 -0000, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

ah, I'll keep an eye out for it, thanks.

took about 4mm off the lock stops, it now has the left wheel about half an inch from the radius arm at full lock, but something is stopping the right side from turning as far as the stop. When I had this on the 109, it was the steering damper (too short) but the one on the disco seems OK.

I'm guessing that it's hitting the end of the travel in the box itself. The drag link seems to have adjustment, which I guess could correct that, except that this will mean that the wheel's crooked at straight ahead, so the wheel would need moving around on the splines, provided it's not keyed to one position, of course...

what's the deal on removing a wheel with an airbag, without setting the bloody thing off?

Cant go off if the battery disconnected surely?

I know of one garage that disconnects the battery and WAITS half an hour

Don't forget the magic numbers though !!

DieSea

I'd expect a big condenser in there somewhere to cover the event that the battery gets disconnected some time before the impact. There may be a 'safety' resistor to drain the condenser slowly so 'wait' may be appropriate - any clues in the manual?

Alternatively, on the older models wasn't it possible to make the rotational adjustment between the bottom of the steering column and the steering 'box - specifically, at the input to the 'box itself where it may not be keyed?

IIRC there's splines on one of the joints of my steering column, though mine's obviously earlier than D2.

But on the older ones there were grooves for the clamp bolts which had to be in line or the bolt wouldn't go through.

Martin

Was that also the case for the last link onto the steering box? - I can't remember. It was certainly the case for the UJs.

Yes, on all of them, but I know nothing about the later ones.

This had me wondering WTF you meant. Front wheel, air bag, the air suspension is only at the back...eh???

Then the other posts appeared and you mean the steering wheel. It's no biggie, I've taken the air bag off both of my DII's to fit the cruise switches.

Disconnect the battery (have codes for later...). Make a cup of coffee and get your torx bits and a right angle or short driver ready. Ten or twenty mins or so should have elasped by now. Hoik the steering round 90 degrees and find the hole with the torx headed bolt in the bottom easy access up from the foot well rather than in front of the instruments. Undo and remove the bolt. I can't remember if there are just 2 or 4 of these to remove but you want all of 'em out. The air bag is surprisingly heavy and will attempt to fall off when it has no bolts holding it on so hang onto it as your remove the last bolt. Gently lift it forward on its wires, they aren't overly long and disconnect the plug from the back of it. This can be rather stiff, either that or I didn't find the release mechanisium... Place airbag safely out of the way somewhere.

On or around Mon, 02 Mar 2009 22:27:19 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

ah, OK.

now that reminds me. Is it *really* just "fit the switches to the wheel" to enable cruise on a TD5 disco (manual box)?

I don't suppose you know if the wheel can be shifted round 1 spline? I'm guessing that if I adjust the linkage to get even-handed movement on the steering, that's about how far out of straight the steering wheel will end up.

In case you all think "WTF? why's he arsing about with it?", I have a tight turn (left going out and right coming in) to make every day, and, if I get maximum lock and hit the right starting point, it should go round in 1 without shunting.

fecking rear sunroof is pissing water in today, something else to fix.

Yes, the set in the wheel and one on the binnacle. Just paid =A375 for t= he kit from an eBay seller about the only kit source I could find. The switches are available as spares for a lot less but the steering wheel o= ne does not come with the metal bracket that holds it onto the steering wheel.

The binnacle switch has left or right versions depending on VIN and cost= s about =A36 the steering switches about =A334. In case you are wondering = the curves and shape of the binnacle switch actuator is slightly different between the LH and RH version.

ruise+switch&submit=3DSearch+the+shop

This link is good, with lots of good piccies as well:

A man of your caliber could probably make something suitable from those =

pictures and having the bits to hand to measure.

Not explored that at all.

Curiously this 04 "Landmark" DII has a tighter turning circle than my ol= d Y reg ordinary DII.

I've an occasional leak center of the wind screen. It's coming through t= he actual goope that fixes the glass to the car. I suspect it would be fixe= d by application of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure but I think it really needs to go on the outside to stop the water getting in in the first place. Reading the book about the wind screen it says remove the t= op trim and discard... B-(

Disco IIs have a crap steering lock. I have a similar tight corner on the way in, and I clouted the wall with mine several times before I got used to it (after years of doing the same turn in a 90, RRC and Disco I). So don't bank on getting a clear round and nul points, even with the steering centred. If it's any consolation, unless I do some real precison driving with the Mundaneo, I either touch the wall or ground the towbar. Neither sounds nice.

On or around Tue, 3 Mar 2009 20:25:34 -0000, "Rich B" enlightened us thusly:

As standard, it's got silly clearance (on 235 tyres) between the wheel and the radius arm. I've got the left wheel down to a sensible clearance of about 1/2", but the right one is being a pain, as described.

I assume the standard clearance is to cater for all the variants of wheel/tyre: it can have 255 fitted on 8" rims, which, if the outer edge is in the same place WRT the body would mean the inner edge is 20mm further in.

However, mine's on 7" rims and 235s, and I've no intention of fitting any others.

IIRC, on the D2 the lockstops are not adjustable - there's an internal limiter in the swivels that does the same thing. Not user-serviceable, as they say. There is a kind of emergency extra bit of turn if you hold the steering as far as it will go and then pull it harder - there's an extra few degrees of turn in the steering wheel which has got me round a few things in the past. I was told by the dealer that this was a product liability thing. With the high CoG and a lot of US customers, LR were just making it more difficult to apply full lock while at speed and turn the thing over.

On or around Thu, 5 Mar 2009 11:53:45 -0000, "Rich B" enlightened us thusly:

They are if you have a lathe... It does have lock stops. I've noted the thing you mentioned about extra movement, though, in one direction. I need to look into this more.

On or around Thu, 05 Mar 2009 17:42:10 +0000, Austin Shackles enlightened us thusly:

It does do the thing about going round more, but only it seems when in motion. I'll try it jacked up, with someone else on the wheel, then I can see what it's up to.