Disco rear floor

As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on our

95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling up. Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I have heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas? Thanks Richard
Reply to
Richard
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On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote (in article ):

Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my '96. Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.

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This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I used to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing that started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!

I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not having any luck doing a web search for it.

Sincerely Hud

Reply to
Disco Duck

The most probable reason for the soaked sound insulating material must be the alpine windows or the C to D post side windows or rather their weatherstrips. Try adding some black silicon around the weatherstrip (actually between the weathestrip and the vehicle's bodyshell) and this most probably will cure the water ingress problem that your car most probably suffers from.

As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you have already received your answer. The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot galvanizig bath)

Take care Pantelis (who lives 7 meters away from the sea and galvanizes everything that can be galvanized)

Reply to
Pantelis Giamarellos

wife sat inside earlier with the carpet out and I hosed the car all over the outside and also underneath. The water isnt coming through any glass seals but though some little plastic bungs in the floor. Once I have sorted the rust I will seal them with either silicone or seam sealer. Richard

Reply to
Richard

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos" enlightened us thusly:

you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by welding the sod in.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Excellent idea about electroplating

As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell and stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of the best solutions if rusting is a problem. I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how well modern dual compound epoxy glues perform. But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is required in the future.

Take care Pantelis

Reply to
Pantelis Giamarellos

But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat them in situ? Thanks Richard

Reply to
Richard

Richard Hi,

I guess treating it with one of the widely available rust neutralizers and prohibitors will be a good thing to do.

Most of them say that they do work even without removing the existing rust but I am sure doing so (removing them) will have much better results.

Take care Pantelis

Reply to
Pantelis Giamarellos

Spotted an Ad on the box yesterday for some Ronseal metal paint that they "guarantee" will prevent rust breakthrough for 6 years.

Possibly all sorts of compatability problems with existing paints etc, but still, 6 years!

David

Reply to
rads

Well I put hammerite on bare metal and it has rusted through after two years of being dunked in sea water on a weekly basis. Not too bad i guess.

A
Reply to
Andrew Renshaw

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