Disco V8 Oil Change?

Hi,

Can anybody quantify the risk of ending up needing to prime the oil pump after changing the oil on a V8 Disco? As a newbie I'm trying to avoid a drama on my first bit of supposedly simple maintenance!!

According to what I've read you need to be fast when replacing the old filter with a primed new one. How fast!!

Is there also a rush to put the new oil in?

As I understand it (which is obviously not very well :-) )the pump is only in danger of draining when the filter is off. As the filter is on an angle it can't be totally full when put back on either.

thanks pete

Reply to
Pete Dawson
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Your understainding is right! The simplest thing to do is to leave the filter on when changing the oil, and when re-filled *then* change the filter.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

Pete> Hi, Can anybody quantify the risk of ending up needing to Pete> prime the oil pump after changing the oil on a V8 Disco? As Pete> a newbie I'm trying to avoid a drama on my first bit of Pete> supposedly simple maintenance!!

Pete

You don't say what engine you have. I know that for the later 4.0/4.6 engines the oil pump is self priming and this isn't an issue. On the earlier ones then I know you have to worry about this but I've never done one so I can't comment.

AndyC

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Reply to
AndyC the WB

On or around 19 Nov 2003 19:01:23 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@airways.co.nz (Pete Dawson) enlightened us thusly:

it's mostly-full though.

you can drain the oil and refill it, and then change the filter, too. Which is what I do. That way the oil pickup pipe is below the oil level, so less chance of it draining. I've not had it happen, I have to admit - what I do is to drain the oil, refill it to midway on the stick or so, fill the new filter with oil (noting that it takes more than you think - it get full and then goes through the filter and the level inside goes down. Repeat this several times, it holds at least 0.5l). Having filled the filter, and positioned it to hand where it won't get knocked over, loosen the old filter with your wrench-of-choice, spin it off (put yer drain pan underneath where it'll fail to catch all the oil), drop the old filter in the drain pan, pick up the new one and spin it on. Tighten it about three-quarters of a turn after the point that the seal makes contact. I tend to use the wrench for this too, as it's usually slippery, but in theory you can do this by hand.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Austin> the old filter in the drain pan, pick up the new one and Austin> spin it on. Tighten it about three-quarters of a turn Austin> after the point that the seal makes contact. I tend to Austin> use the wrench for this too, as it's usually slippery, but Austin> in theory you can do this by hand.

That's the best guide anyone has been able to give me as to "exactly how tight should the oil filter be". Since I alternate services (I do one, the garage does the next), I never take off a filter I put on, so I don't know if I overdo it or not.

Why alternate services you ask? Well, being something of a novice, I like to have an expert eye look over the car every once in a while. So they do the bigger services and I do the smaller ones.

AndyC

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Reply to
AndyC the WB

Excellent description. Rather than use a wrench to do the filter up I put on a fresh pair of neoprene gloves for the final bit of tightening.

Regards Steve G

Reply to
SteveG

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:50:28 +0000, AndyC the WB spilled forth with the follow words of wisdom:

I used to do that with my motorbike...I did one service, workshop did the other.....now I don't bother taking it to the bike shop, as after playing landrovers, I've learnt a lot......you'll be doing engine swaps soon:-)

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Reply to
Dan Allen

On or around Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:50:28 +0000, AndyC the WB enlightened us thusly:

it's written on the OE ones for citroens or some such. they have numbers 1,

2, 3, 4 around the side, so you can see how far you've gone.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

when youve put new oil filter and oil in , disconnect the HT lead from ignition coil .

turn engine over by key for about 30 secs . it wont fire if youve removed the coil HT lead from the connection on coil [let it lie away from the coil top though so spark cant jump gap ] .

whilst cranking engine over you may see the oil pressure warning light on at first and go off whilst doing this or it may stay on , but after this intial cranking over of engine you should be able to reinstall the coil lead and fire engine up [on tickover only first] , the oil press warning light should go out almost immediately after starting engine .

you could PRIME the oil filter with engine oil , if it can be installed without having to tip the filter over , but this isnt really necessary as the above procedure worked for me for last 15 yrs

Reply to
M0bcg

In article , M0bcg writes

The above is not really applicable to More modern V8 due to the fact that you are pumping neat fuel down to the CAT whilst cranking. And the later V8's have no king lead anyway.

As long as the Engine is restarted within 15 mins of changing the filter you should be fine.

More car should be taken after major overhaul / rebuild.

Reply to
marc

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