Expedition?

Hello,

I' recently purchased a 1995 Discovery I with about 96k miles. As expected, I have had a few problems with "secondary" systems (i.e., not the engine or drivetrain), and have spent quite a few hours under the thing so far. But this is OK, because I am a reasonbly compentent mechanic.

One of the reasons for purchasing this vehicle was that I am planning to do about a year of fieldwork in Belize, Central America. My question to the group regards opinions about taking this vehicle on this trip.

The trip would entail driving from Arizona, through Mexico, and down through Belize. I have done most of this trip before, and it is easy on paved roads. No problem.

Once in Belize, some driving will be on pavement, but a significant amount will be on seasonal dirt that can become impassable during the rainy season.

The purpose of the trip is PhD research so I will have a small, but extremely limited budget to work with.

I have couple concerns. Maybe you can identify some others, and pose some solutions to these.

2) I would like to just disable some of the electronic gadgets on the car, but I find that many systems are tied into the same circuits. For example, I am having trouble with the alarm system, so I pulled the fuse. Then the power mirors stopped working. Does anyone have suggestions on how to address these failure-prone electrical systems to prepare a vehicle for long-term international use?

4) Code Reader - The Check Engine light has already come on a coule times. Would you recomend bringing an inexpensive code-reader? If so, which one? It would be nice ot be able to clear codes. As for the codes, I found this

I am concerned about safty and reliability. I don't want to be stuck in the middle of the jungle with a useless vehicle. If you have had an experience using your Disco for a similar purpose and it completely died on you, I'd be interested to hear your expoerience. Thanks for your input!

--Sean

Have it adjusted before you leave to run on the local fuel, no problem.

Expedition work I've done was with defenders with no such electronic reliance. If you are not going to be working in an urban location I'd have an auto-electricial disable un-needed systems such as the alarm and central locking.

If possible take a complete change of fluids, Filters (air, fuel, oil). complete set of bulbs, set of wheel/axle bearings Set of drive belts and timing belt. complete set of gaskets. Length of electrical wire.

That covers most things but you can go on and on from there.

Use tyres with inner tubes and carry 4 spare tubes. Use steel wheels, not alloy. Your tool kit should be as comprihensive as you can manage but must include a socket set, a torque wrench and a hub-nut spanner, a set of screwdrivers too.

Also a kit for patching punctured inner tubes, a good compressor for inflating same. A pair of axle stands and a jack, hi-lift would be good. some plus-gas or similar releasing fluid. big roll of duck tape. comprehensive workshop manuals and parts guides.

If you are likely to be running electrical equipment while stationary then consider a split-charge system.

I avoid engines with electronic gubbins but if I was using such an engine I would certainly want to know what any fault codes meant.

If you are not already intimatly familiar with your land rover I suggest you take it to someone who knows them well, explain where you will be taking it and ask him to give it a thorough going-over, including changing all fluids and filters, be there, ask questions and help him do it, because next time you are under there you may be alone. Check suspension including bushes, don't be afraid to spend money at this stage, if something like a bush disintigrates in the back of beyond you will be cursing not fixing it before you left.

I personally would fit some under-body protection for the steering components and the front diff, as well as lamp guards (better a bent lamp guard then having to carry around replacement light units).

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Having it adjusted is no real problem, but carrying some octane booster with you is worth while. Not a crate, just some.

Have an auto sparkie bypass/remove anything that's likely to be problematic. Most stuff will be able to be rewired.

It may be worth your while actually getting somebody to completely bypass all the electrical gubbins and keep the functionality where possible - basically having wires run direct with real switches rather than relying on the computers.

All forms of fluid the vehicle could use Half shafts - at least two of each. Any failure prone moving objects - UJs, track rod ends and such like Spark Plugs and plug leads At least one spare track rod and drag link Several spare fuel caps Several spare filler caps for the various fluids Several universal caps for when the dedicated ones have been used up Fuses and relays of all descriptions used in the car Starter Motor Alternator

If you need a code reader, chances are the engine's not field repairable. That said and done, the Gunsons one seems to be decent for the money if you really want one.

Steering protection - up front guard and sumo bars. The steering on Discos is notoriously vulnerable to low hanging objects.

Diff guards - the best you can get. I'd personally recommend the QT Rockslider Guards as being some of the toughest I've seen. You don't want to end up running with no diff oil.

Rock/tree slider side sills if you're planning on doing any work in forest areas - it's not nice trying to open a door you've just accidentally crimped shut, and these help prevent that.

Yet again, bush wires of some description if you're likely to be in forested areas - can save a smashed windscreen.

Highlift jack. At least one. Can get you out of many many difficult situations.

Tirfor type winch in the largest size they do along with a full strop kit - this will get you out of most of the other difficult situations.

It's probably worth your while getting your tyres pre-sealed with the goo stuff. Makes them impossible to fix afterwards, but great for making sure you don't get stuck somewhere you'd rather not be.

If you're towing a trailer then try and make sure it runs on the same rims and rubber as the car - gives you 2 extra spares if you need them to get you out of trouble.

Carry lots of water along with water purification kit. Likewise food.

Make sure whatever you're relying on to heat your food has enough fuel for at least 1.5 times the duration you plan on being on the road.

Make sure you have some means of heating food when the fuel runs out anyway :@)

Fit a snorkel to the vehicle if you can along with the "distrbutor condom" that some places sell - this can allow you to get out of places you would otherwise get the car stalling due to moisture in the ignition.

If it's a manual gearbox in it then have the final drive inspected for wear before you go and replaced if it's at all worn. Fit a Steve Parker oil device if it isn't worn as a matter of course.

Waffle boards can get you out of some silly situations and are reasonably cheap. Don't bother with things like ChockTracks - they are too expensive for what they don't do.

Carry a normal survival kit as well as everything else you carry and make sure to be trained in how to use it - for some idea of the sort of thing I'm talking about, look for "The SAS Survival Handbook" by John (Lofty) Wiseman. It covers the basics and a whole load of other stuff you'll probably never need. A basic outdoor survival course would be worth your time along with a basic first aid course.

Make sure you're carrying a full first aid kit - not a burns and cuts one, but a minor surgery capable one. Most especially make sure you are carrying a sterile sharps kit. I don't know anything about health provision in Mexico or Belize, but I always feel safer in unknown circumstances with a known sterile sharps kit to hand.

Well Mark, your comment has made me decide to actually post my opinion. Sell the Disco and buy a Defender which will have quite a lot less to go wrong. I'd also seriously consider moving to a diesel vehicle for an expedition such as this as it leaves quite a lot less to go wrong.

On or around Tue, 30 Nov 2004 09:14:32 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

diesel fuel is sometimes more easily got in odd places, too - especially if you have a high-compression V8, you'll be looking for high-octane fuel, which you may not get. This was one reason for low-comp engine options in the range rovers, in earlier days.