Getting the seats out of (and back in to) a RR classic

At risk of asking stupid question of the year can anyone give me a steer on getting the seats out of the range rover. I would just look at the car but it's away at the moment.

I'm picking up some 'new' ones - how easy is it to get them in? Would you attempt it in a motorway services!?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
champions
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2 door or 4 door?
Reply to
Dougal

"champions" schreef in bericht news:iOMSd.419$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe1-win.ntli.net

RRC 2 door: There's a bolt (or pin) in front of each slider. Get those out and slide the seat out backwards. Reverse operation to get the other seats in. Can easily be done in under three minutes, if the bolts aren't rusted solid, that is.

Reply to
aghasee

5 door is easy enough, the bases are bolted down with a few bots at the front of the squab. Remove bolts & bases come out. The backs are just bolted down & easy to remove. Tip would be to take soem WD40 & only half undo the bolts (they go through into the mucky area so the lower third of the bolt gets rusty) then squirt into the threads & leave a few minutes. Then carry on !

I did mine in my front garden with nothing other than a ratchet set.

Easy as pie!!

Nige

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"No, I'm Brian"

Reply to
Nige

Reply to
Steve Medlock

In message , aghasee writes

There should a diagonal cross-brace at the back of the seat box that needs the top end released and pivoted down to get it out of the way as well ... and you'll probably need to remove the 'outboard' bit of box trim (if it's there) to get at the bolt head.

One word of caution, three minutes is good ... as long as the bleedin seat clears the rear seat box - took me over half an hour once because one I stripped out was so tight.

Reply to
AJG

"AJG" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@shedcity.demon.co.uk

This bit is missing on mine then...

I forgot to mention my ruster doesn't have any trimmings (anymore). :-)

Granted, maybe the carpets and sound-deadening materials in the rear could be in the way, but surely it won't be much? Lifting the seat a bit as when it clears the slider should do the job.

Reply to
aghasee

Personally I can't understand why you'd want to do this - but each to his own.

The original 2 door 'B' post was not designed to take seat belt loads, it 'may' not be structurally adequate. It certainly doesn't have the fixings built in.

The 2 door 'B' post is further rearward than on the 4 door. The 4 door seat belt might be too short depending on the driver's physical characteristics! Access to the belt will be difficult as will access to the rear seats. Neither of these may concern you.

At floor level the 2 door seat attached to a crossmember built into the floor plate. I suspect that this crossmember will interfere with the 4 door seat. Someone else probably has first-hand experience.

Reply to
Dougal

In message , aghasee writes

No trim and what's sound deadening? :-) Was just a pain, I assume the seat box was pushed back as far as it would go when fitted. The seats normally have a smidgen of clearance so, as you say, you sort of pivot them up off the rear set of runner-wheels, this didn't. I used such phrases as 'I wasn't aware of the weight of front seats' and 'My, this seat appears to not want to come out' ...

Reply to
AJG

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