Headlights

Hello All. I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version

75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
Reply to
John Oakes
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The fuse is rated to protect the cable so don't uprate the fuse or you run the risk of burned out cables and maybe a fire.

If the lights are dimming or flickering on tickover then check the alternator/dynamo belt tension. If your vehicle (you don't say what it is) is fitted with a dynamo then I'd expect tat to happen anyway.

HTH

Reply to
SteveG

I upgraded my headlamps (never realised what piss poor efforts them sealed beams was before) however with regards to fuses I hold the original wiring system in utter contempt and have bypassed the original fusebox with an alternative using blade fuses

(and if the insurance world don't like it they can go F themselves ((if they have the agilitity)) .....)

Reply to
Larry

Hello Steve. My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of alternator.

Reply to
John Oakes

It could be an indication that all is well. If the alternator is demanding more power from the engine than the engine can provide at idling speed and the belt does not slip it will 'pull the engine down'.

Full beam and an idling engine are not a common combination so not much to worry about. Increase your idling speed a bit if it concerns you.

Reply to
Dougal

I agree with Dougal - just forgot to include that thought in my original response. There's probably nothing wrong at all. As a peace of mind check I'd measure the charging current at idle with dipped beam on and as long as that is positive (i.e. the battery is still getting a charge) then I'd be happy.

Reply to
SteveG

Hi,

I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply putting th eheadlights straight in. I had problems with wiring 150w spotlights into a Discovery and had to use a relay in the end to stop wires melting, but that was a combined 300 watts which is fairly meaty.

If you have any doubts about your wring put in a cheap relay form Halfords, about 12 pounds.

You will not blow any fuses, however, if you do simply put the next step fuse in. If running 10, then put a 15 in.

I really cannot see any problems though.

I suspect the headlights goign dull on idling has more to do with your alternator and I suspect you need to upgrade it to a higher output.

Yours

Andrew

P.S. Still trying to get my 110 ready for Africa in six months time. You should try wiring in , banks of rear and front spotlights, fridge, GPS, three cigarette lighters and interior lights.

Reply to
Andrew Renshaw

On or around Sun, 26 Jun 2005 08:29:38 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw" enlightened us thusly:

The 110 headlight switch carries all the headlamp current and is marginal. Running 60+55 on mine caused it to overheat and fail - note that if you run a trailer with side marker lamps all that is running through the switch too.

If as I read it you've replaced your 2x60W beams with 2x75W, then I doubt that's enough to overload it. Putting spots on as well might.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Smoke a lot do we? I think I'd use almost any other high current conector in preferance to ciggy lighters. 'orrible things work as lighters even when used for just a power connection...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Hello Austin. Yes just a straight change over huh straight with a small very small s. I was thinking of putting spots on but thought sod it. Thank for the reassurance everyone. ;)

Reply to
John Oakes

SG: And if the wiring is designed to handle a maximum of 10A and you're actually drawing 14 what will prevent the wiring loom from burning out ... and maybe setting the car on fire? The fuse protects the wiring NOT the load. Jeez I hate amateur electricians.

SG: Oh well, at least you'll be miles away when it all catches fire 'cos you've used the wrong rated fuses ;-)

Reply to
SteveG

It isn't the insurance you want to be really worried about. It is your RIDE catching fire if your positive wire melts to the body and you short your stuff to the body. Even with a minor oil leak or radiator leak, it blossoms to a blaze fit for huge steaks.

In any oportunity, the circuitry will protect the fuse by catching fire.

You upgrade the headlamps, check the wiring afterwards by touching it or seeing if the insulation is melting. If it is warming up, then get yourself a wiring harness from Tiawan and let it take the load off by handling the load.

In my 96 D1, I got the wiring harness and H4 voltage boosters with 55/60 H4s and it looks like I running 90/110 watts. I can see the grain on the pavement at night and it isn't so glarey that it is dangerous.

Check out ebay and look for ntk as a vendor. He sells decent harnesses that drop in after a hour and a wee bit of sweat (glow to you girlie men).

Adam in NYC

Reply to
Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd

Really it is not as if I have never had smoke coming out of a dashboard before and not even on a land rover. I have not increased the wattage merely replaced the sealed beam units with halogen bulbs. In any case I have an alternative fusebox to the original (more for an insurance company to worry about) and I carry a fire extinguisher within easy reach (ought to get an insurance discount for that even if it is a non standard fitting)

I replace my wiring on an as needed basis, eventually I will get round to fitting relays, because the weak point in the system is actually the dip switch as my last one burnt out eventually and that was before I had replaced the headlamps.

Reply to
Larry

I wish you well on your upgrades and may they hold up in the middle of Africa. Don't forget to look at that book about taking care of Land Rovers awhile in Africa and make sure you have a few replacement fuses and bulbs carefully packed away so they will survive the trip.

By the way, the fire extingusher works best when there is someone behind it who knows how to use it. If you are chowing down after a long night driving in the bush, you might not notice the fumes from burning wiring until it is too late.

Get a fire extinguisher that will handle gas oil and electrical fires and won't leave a mess afterwards. Most will leave a terrible mess that you won't be able to recover, like those cheap dry chemical ones.

If this is your life line, you might want to buy all new wiring so you don't have to worry about it when things get interesting.

Adam

Reply to
Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd

On or around Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:48:30 GMT, Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd enlightened us thusly:

Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still have CO2 ones.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Ours at work are 50:50 powder and C02, so C02 must be legal.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Thank you Steve. Here in the US, I think they use a ABCD code so read carefully. If they are available in Africa, then buy them there so you wont have a problem transporting pressured containers on an aircraft.

However, you can try to get water cans (they are the soda powered fire extingushers or the ones that you pump full of air ans then discharge) and ship them empty until you hit the road over there. Then you let everything dry after the BBQ.

Nothing like a little prior prep before the trip and triple check your wiring, like a boy scout.(grin).

Adam (another boy scout, 96 D1 w/100k, one fire extingusher on board, and I work for FDNY)

Reply to
Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd

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