ideas please!

Take off both both propshafts, you will know where the fault lies then. It will either move meaning something before the shafts or not meaning a seized diff or jammed on brakes etc.

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

Or for somewhat less effort, jack each corner in succession and try and rotate the wheel and see if any of them won't move.

For something a little safer than hauling away with the 101, do any of your friends have a decently hefty vehicle mount winch you could use for the same? At the very least you only get a few inches of overrun when it cuts loose.

P.

Aye, just re-read the post!!!

;~)

Got the rear axle sorted finally on the S3 you sold me mate. Runs like a dream now. Gonna start cleaning the chassis etc soon.

It's a cracking little motor for the money, it starts first time every time & never even farts once its warmed up!

Nige

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

'"They called him Jimmy the gent"

It's stuck...

My first move would be a mallet to the back of the backplates on the front axle and also to the wheel on each side (front). From the way your post read I've assumed the rears have the cylinders removed but the gubbins in... if not and theres a likelyhood of stray fluid in the drum then belt the rears too as Brake fluid is quite corrosive... at least it says on the tin it is and last time I worked without paying proper attention I came out in multiple blisters and got the shakes similar to alzimers. Took a trip to A & E and alot of head scratching to work out what caused it.... anyway I digress....

If that didn't work then I'd risk , er,...... my friend would risk the 101 stunt. I'd advise against anything so naughty gaffer.

I've also often found actually pushing the circumference of the tyre can give more pushing power than purely pushing the car... Indeed I scoot the

101 around now and then with a single foot out of the cab onto the tyre hamster stylie just to get some momentum to allow me to move him forward sufficent to open the back doors.

Lee D

"Paul S. Brown" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@snoopy.intra.geekstuff.me.uk:

Ratchet strap.

Starting off by hitting it a bit is always good :) (hit it a bit afterwards for good measure if it makes you feel better!)

Does your garage open onto the road or do you have a bit of drive in front of it?. All you need is a 101 depth of drive plus a couple of foot! You should be able to give it a quick yank with the 101. Just using a really short tow strap (or just loop one back and forth multiple times. If it is just something that has corroded into place then it will only need the initial tug to free it off.

Weve pretty much lashed series landies bumper to bumper to drag them round confined drives.

You could also get hold of a pair of trolley jacks, jack a whole axle up and then it will be rolling on the trolley jack wheels

If it comes down to being a single diff that has locked up then it should still drag with the 101. You can drive a landrover with a locked up rear diff in 4wd and it drags its own wheels! You also do not need to take the rear halfshafts out all the way to remove drive. just pulling them out a couple of inches will suffice (just to un-mesh the teeth at the diff end)

Come and do that to mine which is parked up on a muddy slope! ;)

Oh cool. Wow. My Disco hasn't even got air con.....

TonyB

In message , Tim Hobbs writes

So, one or more wheels refuse to rotate. First identify whether problem is on front or rear diff. Ensure transfer box is in 2 wheel drive. Jack up each front wheel in turn. It should be possible to rotate them individually. One wheel fails - wheel problem. Both wheels fail diff/transfer box, remove prop shaft to isolate.

If front OK then repeat at rear. If both wheels fail then problem is diff/handbrake/transfer box.

Drop propshaft to isolate diff. If diff OK proceed to inspect handbrake. If handbrake OK transfer box is next suspect.

Think that's right.

Once you know where the problem lies you are better able to assess the risk of giving it a big heave with the 101. Using a kinetic recovery rope (gently) would reduce the risk of damage.

Just wondering why you need room to pull the halfshafts, surely just removing the bolts is enough.

Are you sure someone hasn't pulled on the handbrake, because the pivot on the linkage mounted on the chassis usually sieze up if left for a while, maybe you can lever it down against the chassis from underneath if you've not much room.

Martin.

Sounds like the clutch has seized........ Getting it to free up has any number of solutions - mostly involving snatching and/or large hammers......anhem

Richard

The clutch has definitely seized, but it's in neutral. It ran in the garage about a year ago, and I did move it back and forth a bit (albeit without the clutch). I very definitely left it in neutral.

The point about just dropping the halfshafts back a bit rather than complete removal is obvious now Tom and Olly have mentioned it!

If I ever escape from Troon and get back home I'll make a start, wheel by wheel.

Thanks guys

Managed to get back to it today. Although the main gearbox was in neutral the transfer box was in 4wd. With that back in neutral I can move back and forth about a 8 inches or so then it tightens up. That's 8 inches more than it will shift with the transfer box in gear.

With the back jacked up, rear wheels both rotate and the opposite wheel spins tother way as expected.

So, it's got to be in the transmission somewhere. Unfortunately we are having building work done at present and there's half a ton of sand and a pile of railway sleepers behind the 101, so tugging with a V8 is not on just now.

Trying to get it started now, starter motor is doing nowt at the moment. Starting handle on order too...

Prps off then you should be able to roll it out?