indicator cancelling thingamebob

the thing, whatever it is, that cancells the indicators seems to be out of alignment, it seems too prompt at cancelling one way and doesn't usually cancel the other way.

where is this wossit? and how do I get to it and adjust it?

1984 110 csw.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.
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Mines like that (1986 RR).

I think that there is a little "trigger" located in a dimple on the steering column. I dont think you can rotate the trigger on the column. If it isn't centralised, I suspect you have to put front wheels straight ahead, disconnect the UJ at the bottom ot the column, turn the colum so the trigger is centralised (I think this is when it is horizontal) then reconnect UJ and remove and re-fit steering wheel.

Again, a tuit deficiency has prevented me adjusting mine.

ps All the above could easily be completely wrong.

David

Reply to
rads

the steering wheel points the right way when the wheels do and the trigger thingy was playing along nicely until a couple of weeks ago.

I'm hoping I'll come accross sufficint tuits to solve all problems before the end of next month as I have a 19 round trip working in scotland.

Rather hoping to fit new springs, shocks and bushes, I suspect I'll pay someone with a warm workshop for that job though.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

19 day that should be......

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

Your spot on David.

Is this a new problem ? If so the little plastic bit that sits underneath the steering wheel has broken. If its an old problem then drive in a straight line, undo the UJ at the bottom of the column and rotate the steering wheel until the steering wheel is in the correct position for driving straight.

You can get to the plastic bit by removing the steering wheel and it should be obvious at the top of the steering column.

Enjoy

Stu

Reply to
Stuart Adair

Before you do that just make sure the steering column plastic cover hasn't moved around slightly and that the indicator lever is central in the slot when off. I found that the indicator lever was catching on the bottom of the slot in the cover so it was never fully on causing the lever to self cancel early at the slightest bump or turn of the wheel. Couldn't stop it happening so extended the slot, problem solved. Hope you understand what I mean. :-)

Reply to
Bob Hobden

On or around Thu, 09 Dec 2004 16:42:07 +0000, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

I think you'll find it's a metal bit on the back of the steering wheel, and can be adjusted, on the 110. I have memories of removing the one on mine - mostly, I find SCI to be a pain more than a blessing - they either cancel at the wrong time or don't at the right time.

The best ones were the very old ones on series vehicles, which had a little rubber wheel which rotated on the steering column and gradually wound the indicator off. That didn't rely on being in the right place to trigger it.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Mines got a brand new lucas switch on it and works ace. A peg on the steering wheel locates in a blue plastic collar on the switch that operates the self canceland has to be centeralised. If the position of the wheel hasnt changed then theres prolly sumat wrong with the switch (worn) mine was £50+ the shitpart ones are crap £20+.

Reply to
George Spigot

On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 07:49:10 -0000, "George Spigot" enlightened us thusly:

personally, I'd disable the thing altogether and remember to turn 'em off.

and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making derogatory noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that the britpart one is about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas, yet complain when it's not so good. I've had quite a few cheap britpart bits and yes, there are the some that aren't so good and the odd ones that are defective, however, in the latter case you have a clear claim against the seller to provide a replacement that works or a refund. As to the lower quality, well, if it's only 40% of the price what do you expect?

In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality unless I'm paying OE price.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I pulled the cover off the steering colum today and there is a black bit on the back of the steering wheel that looks like it engages with a blue plastic thing that in turn cancels the switch. from sitting there and fannying about for 5 minutes I thin kthe steering wheel may be 1 full turn out as far as the cancelling mechanism is concerned. not sure what to do about that without disconnecting the steering maybe? it's power steering by the way.

I may replace that switch as the horn bit is missing and the horn has been rewired (by a previous owner) to a ford badge button on the dash (a sense of humour then).

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:17:31 +0000, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

erm... it can;t be a full turn out. might be 1/2 a turn out. The wheel should be "upright" with the wheels straight ahead. I've an idea that the thing doesn't engage in the way that it looks like it ought to. ISTR the bit on the steering wheel was a separate metal bit on mine, which pinged off into obscurity at some point. I didn't mind as I was trying to disable it.

hehe.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

2 in a row that dint even make it to the vehicle! got fed up and bought a spensiv 1.

I've had quite a few cheap britpart bits and yes, there are the some

Most parts are ok I bought some hinges, rear door, window,door seals,locks,seals, gaskets, but some things are best bought genuine or at least better quality than the cheapest ****parts.

For instance I bought some cheepo rear shoes I think they were about £7 cheaper than Mintex, but after using them for a couple of months a whole new set of problems have appeared brakes sticking on in reverse from cold for one. I'm ready to buy some mintex shoes and throw these ones in the bin, can't be arsed taking them back.

Reply to
George Spigot

you pays yer money.....

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

I think that's the right attitude. You also need to remember that with some pattern parts, you might need to make the odd 'adjustment' as you fit it because it's probably been designed by copying a genuine part, not from the original drawings, so the pattern 'middle of tolerance' might be some way from the original part.

Sometimes however, the pattern part makers let themselves down a bit. Just bought a Britpart CV joint for my Rangie - it fitted OK although I had to mess about a little with the shim on the hub to get the circlip on - but what pee'd me off was that the joint was full of swarf. I checked for that and washed it out, cleaned it up and made sure it was OK before fitting it, but would most people think to do that?

It's just slipshod to send out 'precision' parts with machining swarf trapped inside.

Reply to
Simon Atkinson

On or around 11 Dec 2004 11:03:44 GMT, "Simon Atkinson" enlightened us thusly:

a good point. Such things annoy me slightly, but don't worry me provided I can make it work. I had a light switch in this category - iffy contact between one terminal and another, which are rivetted together. soldering it solved this. However, the method of construction of the original part is identical, so the only advantage in buying OE in that case would have (possibly) been better QC which didn't let an iffy one out in the first place. However, when fitted, it worked, and thus would have passed a QC test anyway.

ah, now I agree there. careless. I'd write to 'em and complain, might be worth a quid or so, even though you've solved it. At the least, it might help avoid someone else suffering similarly.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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