It worked... but more help needed!

You will find new standard springs are probably a big improvement on your old ones anyway. I would expect the parabolic springs will give an improvement over standard mainly on rough surfaces, so if you are not planning to offroad then the parabolics may not be worthwhile. Both sets of springs are the same to fit. You need no special tools, but expect to have to replace at least some shackle pins and u-bolts. The most important thing is to not finally tighten the shackle pins until the weight is back on the springs. JD

I fitted parabolics to replace my original springs ad found them to be a big improvement. My old springs were HD Diesel ones and were completely knackered as were the shocks so I think fitting anything would have been an improvement. From my experience and what others have said it is important to fit new shocks designed for the parabolics as well eg Pro Comp ES3000s. I would also buidget for all new bolts and you mey need new bushes, particularly rear ones. You don't need any specialist tools just spanners or sockets. An angle grinder is handy for removing any stubborn bolts though. I don't think it's worth fitting parabolics if you're old springs and shocks are in good nick but if they're knackered it's probably worth fitting parabolics even just for road use.

HTH Cheers

Bill

Oil leak as described is due to axle oil (which also lubricates the hubs) leaking out past the hub oil seal. Three basic reasons:

1) seal itself has failed 2) stub axle collar has worn in a groove that the seal lip is sat in 3) axle breather is blocked and thus pressurising the axle

(3) is the easiest to check - spot a brass sticky-up thingy on the top of the axle - that's the breather valve. Unscrew it and then try blowing in through the threaded bit - if no blow then it's no go and you can try cleaning it or buy a new one (they're cheap)

The parts for (1) and (2) are also cheap but.... it's a bit more time consuming to fit them and, Haynes? Well it may be vague at times but it does cover the hub oil seal replacement quite well. Best replace both parts if you are going to go in there and fiddle about - you'll need a new hub oil seal, stub axle collar, felt seal for halfshaft, new locking washer for hub securing bolts and a gasket for the drive flange - maybe worth investing a fiver in a big box spanner to twiddle the hub securing nuts too.

Graeme

SNIP In my experience even when the bolts have been coated with Copper Slip they can still seize in the bushes, therefore the only way to get them out is cutting the bolt between the bush and the shackle on both sides. If you can lay your have on an electric saw you'll save some time. Assuming the springs have died of old age then you should replace the bushes, bolts and U bolts as well. If you buy them from a third party supplier, (Not an official Land Rover Dealer) they are dirt cheap. Chock the wheels before you start and don't forget these springs are heavy so don't let one Drop on your leg when you are giggling them out. The first time I changed the springs it took all day after that I could do them in half an hour provided there wasn't too much corrosion.

If you are buying new springs make sure they have the bushes already fitted otherwise you will need a press or a big vice to push them in.

Regards