Lack of TD5 power

Could be a zillion billion gazzillion things.. or the exhaust.

Just thought I'd add the one thing that jumped to the front of my mind.

Lee D

On or around Mon, 16 Mar 2009 12:10:19 -0700 (PDT), Dom J enlightened us thusly:

Having degunged it, why not simply leave the vacuum pipe off it, it won't open then...

I must look at mine, it's just disconnected at the moment, which is OK unless it's stuck partly open.

Other things people have said: clean the manifold and intercooler.

There's not much scope for tweaking, it's a chip job to actually make it go much better. Depending on age, LR tweaked the programming themselves, so your Y plate (and my T plate) may not be the same as a 51 - I don't know the relevant date though.

Bunged a bottle of redex diesel stuff in mine, on the basis that even if it does no good, it's not actually going to do much harm. Although giving it some stick on the way home from builth might have done as much good.

I'm assuming they have a cat in the exhaust, which might be clogged.

When you say you have looked for oil in the ECU plug but "not pulled it", what do you mean? If you mean you haven't disconnected it from the ECU then that's the only way to tell if oil is tracking inside the insulation. I was sceptical about this but it happened to my 2001 TD5.

On or around Mon, 16 Mar 2009 20:19:33 -0000, "Andy" enlightened us thusly:

This is the plug on the main ECU, in a plastic box by the battery? Or a different plug?

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Yep, that's the one.

Curious you should say that. This 'ere new 04 plate DII doesn't "go" as well as my old Y plate one. It doesn't pull as well at the bottom end of the rev range but does seem to happier at higher speeds. Was surprised to glance at the speedo today and be doing 80 (down a gentle hill) without much noise or compliant.

It is returning a lower mpg, on a mainly motorway run the Y plate would do over 31mpg, the 04 plate has only got over 30 once, most of the time it's down at 28. The turbo push is far more noticeable on the 04 but it doesn't pull well at lower revs. Maybe that is contributing to the lower mpg?

On or around Tue, 17 Mar 2009 23:19:04 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

The one here has been doing about 26!

However, since then I bunged the aforementioned redex (which is blue) in and also gave it a good thraping back from Builth, using 4th gear and lots of boot/revs to overtake stuff. It now seems to be running smoother, so will see what the figures look like, both for this tank (which has the redex in) and for the next tank of plain diesel.

Be interesting. In theory mine has had some "injector cleaner" used on it at every service it has had. Where is the EGR valve and the pipe that can be disconnected and presumably needs plugging?

That sort of driving characteristic is usually too much EGR. Blank it off with a plate and re-test.... I am pretty certain it will feel a different machine..

Tim.

On or around Wed, 18 Mar 2009 10:28:51 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

front of the manifold, take the black top cover off and it's right there. Remove the vacuum pipe. I didn't bother plugging it, although I guess one ought to. The EGR only opens if it gets vacuum from the control unit. On the Lucas Epic, you only have to unplug the wire from the control unit, but then on the TDi ford you can see the valve operating - the LR one doesn't have an external linkage. It appeared still to suck a bit even with the control thingy (RHS of the engine bay) disconnected. However, disconnecting the vacuum pipe means the valve won't open.

Note that if it's stuck part-open, it's still stuck, so I'll be looking at that sometime too.

Thought I'd have a quick look. Can't get the frigging engine cover off. The single blot on the offside side is very loose, goes round and round but will it come out? Will it F. I assume it's like the other two, a hard steel bolt into a soft ali casting and it's been crossed and/or stripped. I can't figure out what's holding it in though.

Also found that mine is the EU3 compliant type 2 variant of the EGR system.

Yeah, provided you can get the cover off!

Mine has the type 2 EGR variant with lots more vacuum plumbing and two vacuum control thingies only one pipe on the EGR valve itself though I think. I might fire up RAVE again and have a look at the plumbing and see if I can get at the other end of the same pipe.

I was mainly think of air getting in and possibly confusing the control system if the valve was giving "odd" feeback readings back. Dirt is probably not welcome either. B-)

No, it's a captive nut in a sheet steel bracket or something similar. Definitely not into ally.

Thanks, not so captive nut in my case. B-) I did try tensioning the bolt by moving the cover as much as possible and turning it but it didn't seem to have any effect.

Odd that Dave mentions the bolt on the engine cover. Mine did the same. The only way i could get it off was to give the cover a good heave and pull the grommet through the cover. I'll probably leave the cover off now.

Not pulled the ECU out yet to check properly, will do at the weekend. Took car for a spin last night and it seems better, not much but def seems better. Will try the pulling the pipe off the EGR as well tonight.

Dom

On or around Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:27:26 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

3 bolts on mine. 2 one side into the head and one the other side into a bracket and one of those silly captive nuts.

they all benefit from the addition of a few 10mm washers to stop the thing rattling.

It's not hard to remove. Mine wasn't stuck, so put it back, still disconnected, there's quite a strong spring holding it shut. Plentiful black gunge in the airway, but that's normal for diesels. I guess ideally I'd remove all the air inlet stuff downstream of the turbo and clean it, but that looks like a lot of work for not a lot of gain.

yeah, I put a handy spare 5mm screw into the end.

On or around Wed, 18 Mar 2009 11:09:55 -0700 (PDT), Dom J enlightened us thusly:

it's one of those square captive nuts in a little pressed steel cage. Don't know if you can get behind it with something to hold it.

the gorilla approach seems likely, the rubber grommet should pull through as suggested. I may yet take the cover back off mine - it doesn't seem to make much odds sound-wise, and gets in the way of any work on the engine.

I might have another go today, now I know what I'm fighting.

If I can't get the cover off(*) I'll pull the two blue pipes off the modulators. This will stop the EGR valve opening and the ILT butterfly valve in the air inlet to the EGR closing, should mean that the engine gets all the air, all of the time, without added pollutants. Must be good...

(*) The gorrilla approach may well be employed.

No-one has mentioned the intercooler hose.

Internal delamination can block the path of air flow. "Turbo spooling to atmosphere" is what my local Landrover dealer called it, which I find most creative.

My .02c worth & also for the Google record.

Cheers.

Ric Norris. Brisbane. Australia.