Lazy indicator switch

All,

When I bought my 110 CSW, the indicator switch was not holding its position when indicating to the right (jumping out on its own, and always when turning the steering wheel to the right (not just on the way back)). I fiddled with it to try to see if there was anything wrong and now it does hold its position, but still jumps out when turning the wheel to the right. And it does the same for the left, but overall, it's better!

Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than changing it for a new one?

Cheers,

Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse
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On or around Tue, 22 Mar 2005 13:52:37 +0000, Fred Labrosse enlightened us thusly:

they're a bastard to fix, bite the bullet and get a new 'un, is my advice.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Check first that the rubber boot is pushed right back up to the top of the stalk. The extra pressure of the rubber can spring a tired switch out of position.

Next make sure there's no crud on the blue collar that rotates with the steering wheel. Also make sure that the 2 arms on the steering wheel engage properly with the collar.

If this doesn't fix it then its time to fettle the switch. Watch for things flying everwhere when you take the cover plate off the switch. If I remember correctly, there are 3 sprung items; the contact roller for the actual switch, and 2 ball bearings on ramps that do all the holding-the stalk-in-position stuff. You can try cleaning and regreasing the whole thing, giving the relevant springs a bit of a stretch, and recutting the ramp that the ball bearings run on, if they're worn.

I did all of this and still had problems so I just removed the blue collar so that you've no cancelling at all. At least it stays in position that way. Doesn't take long to get used to cancelling manually.

Oh, and don't hit yourself in the head with the steering wheel when removing it :-)

HTH Gromit.

Reply to
Gromit

Well mine never does what it is supposed to it cancels before its time and then stays on when it ought to self cancel.

Reply to
Larry

I did indeed notice that the rubber boot was changing the behaviour of the switch. It works fine without it. I think however its position is right now.

It all looks fine there. I even put a bit of grease, since there was already some.

Thanks for that. I might try, depending on the price of a new one.

I know...

Do you really have to take the steering wheel out?

Many thanks for all that.

Fred

Reply to
Fred Labrosse

Yep, pretty sure you do as the arms in the steering wheel engage with the blue collar. It isn't too difficult, though the steering wheel can be a bit tight on the splines of the column. If you don't have a puller, a few (unrecommended) smites with your weapon of choice on the steering wheel, WD40 and some swearing should have it off.

If the switch works ok without the rubber boot, its probably because the ramps on which the ball bearings run are warn.

As far as I can make out, cancelling in the wrong direction is caused by 2 curved plastic arms that contact with the ramp on the blue collar. These have to bend out of the way when you are turning the same direction as you are indicating. I reckon the plastic hardens with age and so doesn't bend properly, thus cancelling in the wrong direction. (Maybe this'll make sense once you see inside the switch!)

Fettling the switch takes a while and is a bit fiddly and isn't guarenteed to work. Best solution is probably just to take out the blue collar I reckon.

Oh, and if the switch is old, the plastic ring that holds the switch in place on the steering column WILL break. Be careful, as shoehorning a jublie clip in its place once you've broken it is a PITA.

Gromit

Reply to
Gromit

In article , Gromit writes

Safe way to do this is to loosen but NOT REMOVE the nut holding the wheel on. You can then give it an almighty tug by hand, without risk of braining yourself.

I can't claim credit for this - someone else on the list suggested it to me ages ago, and it worked a treat.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

On or around 23 Mar 2005 03:28:16 -0800, "Gromit" enlightened us thusly:

loosen the nut, unscrew it 'til it's flush with the end of the shaft. Sit in the driver's seat and apply a good bit of pressure using both knees and one hand to the wheel rim, such as would pull the wheel off if it were free. If you bend the spokes, you're pulling too hard :-). Now give the nut/shaft a light-moderate smack with a medium-sized hammer, being careful to hit it square on.

leaving the nut on the shaft stops you burring the end of the thread when you hit it, and also stops the wheel, once released, flying off and hitting you on the chin.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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