I am replaving the chassis on my 110.
Removed all bolts hoding the body to the chassis, hand brake cable etc etc etc.
So now ready to lift the body off, only have a trolley jack and axle stands.
Plan is to lift it and the pull the rolling chassis out from under.
Is best to lift with doors in for rigidity or out for lightness?
How many places do I need to support it in?
Gerald
I doubt the weight of the doors, or their contribution to rigidity, is all that significant, except on a soft top, but I would be inclined to leave them on. Removing seats, battery are probably just as useful as far as weight without any rigidity implications. Number of supports needed probably depends a bit on the body style, but I would support at bulkhead, rear wheel arch. I assume you have removed the front wings and bonnet separately, and plan on removing the rest of the body including the bulkhead as one. I have never done this, but there was an article on doing it in LRO a couple of years ago if my memory serves. JD
I'm sure ive seen it in a mag too. They had a landy with a full length roof rack and just lifted the whole body up with a forklift in the roof rack i think.
I've always split mine up when removing bodies from chassis' as it makes it lighter.
Thanks. Its a CSW. Yes have removed the front wings and bonnet separately, removing the rest of the body including the bulkhead as one. Had assumed best to leave roof on for rigidity to avoid distortion, am I mistaken in this?
Gerald
I think you want to be careful. The rooves arnt that strong and the bulkhead is heavy so you could easily damage the roof if youre not careful.
a mate did the rear x-member on his LWB a few years back and managed to ripple the roof by lifting the back end of the body very slightly.
How do you plan on keeping the whole thing rigid and supported when you lift it up?
Leave the doors in for strength. You should put a support every place where the body would normally have contacted the frame. That way you know that you haven't distorted the body.
-- Jeffrey S Austin Chesapeake VA
Took the doors out, supported under wheel arch at rear and under seat box at front. Seems to have worked well with no visual problems re distortion or anything. The acid test will be putting it all back again! Now to sort out engine and transmission swap to new chassis. The fuels pipe that runs from the tank to the filter is badly corroded, is it normal to replace like for like or is some other more rust resistant material used?
Gerald
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