locating clutch problem (101)

The clutch has ceased to work on the 101. It was fine (though it had felt a bit wierd and like it was only just working for a few weeks prior). the truck has been sat for 18 months before i got it back on the road in jan. How do i work out where the fault is short of replacing bits one at a time?

The symptoms are that the reservoir no longer has any juice in (in both sections quite worryingly - it is a dual reservoir shared with half the brakes) and the pedal doesnt do owt.

There is no sign of any obvious leakage inside or outside. If i push the pedal down and poke my finger up to feel the shaft of the master cyl i get a bit of juice on my finger but not very much. Is this normal.

I have unscrewed the nipple on the slave cylinder and when i pressed the pedal there was a bit of a trickle out of the nipple and the level when down - so it atleast works slightly.

I would normally pressure bleed it to see what happens but i cannot do that since my reservoir is too knackered to fit a cap on.

Where would people put their money? master cyl or slave cyl?

I need to move the truck this weekend as it is holding up progress! One of my cars is stuck behind it and i need to put a gate post up right beside it and dont fancy undermining a 101 while digging a hole!

Reply to
Tom Woods
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Is there any sign of fluid on pedal or dripping out of flywheel drain hole?

Probably master cylinder gone although if it was me I'd change both and the flexi hose. New reservoirs are available from the club. You should keep them covered as they degrade in UV from sunlight. You will also have to check your brakes as well if resevoir is low.

If you just need to move it a short distance, stick it in low 1st and just start it, turn off to stop or put in reverse.

Sean

73FL74 101GS 2000 110CSW
Reply to
sean101ryan

In message , snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com writes

Haven't the dual-reservoirs been out of stock for a while ... or has Darren uncovered a new source?

Reply to
AJG

If it hadnt been for me having to spend the last week and a half (and the next couple of weekends also) beefing up the garden security I'd have got up to Steve's place and we'd have made a nice shiney new reservoir by now :(

Reply to
Tom Woods

Definately none on the pedal (freshly painted a month or two back). I cant see any coming out of the drain hole though its all a bit oily round there so kinda hard to tell.,

Reckon i can get away with just a seal kit?

Its stuck in reverse at the moment. Cant seem to get it out without the clutch! Its always been tricky to get out of reverse after being parked for a while and i always leave stuff in reverse through habit (have saabs!)

Unless i can drive it 5 miles to my parents house, where ive got to move it to in my garden to get it out of the way requires a bit of shunting back and forth and careful manouvering. Doubt itll like doing that if i have to keep stopping and starting it

Reply to
Tom Woods

Tom Woods wrote, On 21/02/2007 18:42:

Seal kits for my SIII did the job, and were pretty easy to replace. Check that the naughty badgers have not put mineral hydraulic fluid into the system while you weren't looking. It turns the seals from bouncy-rubber to brittle-rubber and could cause the problems you describe. They did that to my SIII and caused lots of problems.

David

-- DavidM snipped-for-privacy@SPAMdjmorgan.org.uk

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Reply to
DavidM

May be worth a seal kit to get you out of trouble, assumed you only needed move it a few yards!. Stuck in reverse? Not sure, try putting Tbox in neutral to see if it releases it, if not you could have a problem.

Don't know about stocks of reservoirs, heard there was a problem but can't remember any of my chats with Darren at last Sodbury! Really must stop killing memory cells with Guinness!

Sean

73FL74 101GS 2000 110 CSW
Reply to
sean101ryan

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Tom if you are about tomorrow in the day I can tow it out of the way if it helps.. though relocating it on the drive could be interesting unless it's downbank.

I will be up and around in the morning. I'm committed in the evening Thurs or could pop over Friday Evening if it elps.

Failing that the 110 would make a good ground anchor for you to try that Tirfor.

I've got 2 hand winch doofers rated to 2 ton which should be ok for a rolling load.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Thanks Lee!.

Thing is that to get it out of the 'road' i need to reverse it in at an angle between my wall and the carport and that usually takes me a few goes. It is very slightly downhill but only by a foot or so over

20ft and there is a kerb to get it over. Additionally the 2A is in the way, and until thisafternoon half a ton of sand and about 50 blocks (now moved!).

I'm working for the rest of the week, and busy on sat so I think it will have to wait until sunday now when i can get the 2A fired up and moving. Should have some mates over on saturday night too, so between us we should be able to move it assuming i can get it out of reverse.

I might even be able to get the bits i need off darren on saturday if they are all in stock!.

I'll give you a ring if we get stuck!

Reply to
Tom Woods

Ill try that. It generally sticks in reverse until you have pumped the clutch a few times and then it grinds out. Will try jumping on the gear lever too ;)

I could get away with dragging it forwards a couple of lengths and then trying to then roll it back and turn it 90 degrees to park it for the day.. however I need to put it back off the road at the end of the day and thats gonna be tricky when there are 2 gateposts set in fresh concrete to avoid!

Will ask him.

Reply to
Tom Woods

Im just wondering if it would be possible to yank a 101 which is stuck in reverse forwards using the tirfor or if it would just drag the anchor towards the 101! (or knacker the person trying to move the tirfor handle!)

Reply to
Tom Woods

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Two things come to mind... Ebay and Rollerskates. :-)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Wed, 21 Feb 2007 18:42:04 +0000, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

Unless the parts are tricky to get or very pricey, I only ever do that as a get-out-of-trouble. Past experience of old hydraulics leads me to believe that the best fix is new hydraulics.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Austin Shackles uttered summat worrerz funny about:

I'd have to agree, especially if it weighs 4 tonnes and doesn't want to go on it's own steam.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

And if new cylinders aren't available then get the old ones resleeved in stainless steel (not in brass - it doesn't last) and fit a new seal kit. Once done in SS they last pretty well forever (my SIIa wheel cylinders have lasted 12 years so far). It's a pity I'm 12000 miles away or I'd resleeve them for you over the weekend.

Reply to
EMB

Yep, darren has no stock and no source for more yet.

I guess ill have to bleed it the old fashioned way and then drive up to Steves and see how many aluminium ones we can run up! and how much they end up costing. That was the plan anyway but i hoped it would last a bit longer than it did :(

Reply to
Tom Woods

Found the problem.

Clamped the flexy and still no pedal so assumed it was the master.

Resealed the master (looks nice and smooth inside still) and then bled it the old fashioned way. As soon as we got a pedal the real problem became clear - the flexy pipe has a pinhole in it and squirts - but only when it is bled up. It sucks air in after it squirts so you only get perhaps 2 pumps before loosing it.

I have a replacement flexy pipe but im not sure how im going to get the old one off. There is a flimsy bracket to hold it onto the chassis but the nut is on the top if it (where you cant see!) and it all appears to be stuck. I can undo the slave cyl end of the flexy.

There is a joint in the clutch pipe near the front. All i can think of doing is undoing this and cutting the chassis bracket (leaving enough to reweld or drill and bolt back to) and pulling the whole shebang off as one. Unless someone has a better suggestion.

Im tempted to try grinding through the flexy first, but that will be minging, tricky and might then leave me with the end of the flexy stuck in the connector on the end of the rigid brake line.

Reply to
Tom Woods

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Think along the lines of future repairs in the field (carry a spare!) so I'm of the opinion chop off and make good.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Ended off hacksawing the end of the bracket and redrilling to fit a small extension that holds the flexy. Is now all back together and just needs bleeding - which i cant do without an assistant as i cant pressure bleed it :( Am trying to convince someone to stop by one evening. I've just gone and asked for some stuff off freecycle so need the truck to move that!

Reply to
Tom Woods

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

One man bleeding kits are pretty cheap in Halfords and worth having one on the shelf for just this sort of occasion.

You place the tube over the nipple, slacken the nipple, pump out the fluid / air and the other end of the pipe has a valve which allows the air and fluid out but not back in. Dunking the end of the pipe in a milk bottle or other chosen vessle also secures the process incase the valve is dodgie.

Tighten the nipple and Bobs your Uncle.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

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