long load in a SWB!

I'm building a carport. Today i found that the local builders merchant sell 2x4 timber in 16ft lengths. I have a SWB landy, which is less than 16ft long in total!

They have offered to lend me a saw so i can shorten it, but i'd quite like it in the full length since my carport is close to 16ft long.

Do you reckon that if i open my passenger side air vent I could poke a few full lengths of 2x4 right through and out to the front of the bonnet so that i only have a couple of foot of overhang?

Do people reckon that they will fit this way while resting on the top of the bulkhead/rear tailgate? I dont mind doing a few loads (since its less than a mile to my house)

Or should i remove the front of my rag and fold the screen down and do it that way?

This had made me think what the longest load anybody has shifted in a SWB is? :)

Reply to
Tom Woods
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Don't know about the series Landies, but my 90 has bug screens inside those vents...

Reply to
Torak

theyre an optional extra on a 2A and i dont have them.

Reply to
Tom Woods

Forget the vents.

Fold back the front section of the soft top.

Rest the timber on the top of the windscreen frame at the front and on the rear body capping at the rear.

You'll have to tie it on, of course.

Reply to
Dougal

sounds to me like you need a roofrack m8 the longest thing I've had on mine is a pair of pretty long ladders but in your situation I would probably go for dropping the windscreen!!

Reply to
landiemanlll

ooh. im liking this idea. I could just stick the back end on the floor so it touches the bottom of the tailgate. might make it a bit more secure. There isnt a lot to tie it to on the top of the windscreen frame though?

Reply to
Tom Woods

I think if you keep the rear end of the timber inboard the front overhang will be rather high. The centre of gravity might even be forward of the contact point on the windscreen frame which would make things 'interesting'.

There are lots of things to tie it to including the hood sticks, bumper, bulkhead ..... just use some imagination.

Reply to
Dougal

16 ft?

Now you're begining to scare me.... ask them how much to deliver.. failing that do it this weekend.. I'll be out of the County ;-)

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Once had a boat upside down on my S3, no roof or door tops just the windscreen. The pointy bit of the boat was over the bonnet and tied to the bumper with the middle resting on the screen , the blunt bit was resting on the back and tied on, got some funny puzzled looks driving through town :)

-- Jon

Reply to
jOn

Thats what they said! i was expecting 3M lengths like the posts i bought home today.

They cant deliver till next week and i want to build stuff this weekend!

If i felt energetic and had a couple of hours i could almost carry them home 2 at a time!

Reply to
Tom Woods

good point. will have to measure up. Remember that ive only got to get it about 1/2-3/4 of a mile. Up a lane, cross the main road, then into the estate that i live in

the best tie down point would be the contact point though - and you cant do a lot with the screen in the way. I could make a big frame like fred dibnah used to have on his landy :)

Reply to
Tom Woods

True, but there's nothing there.

If you're not too ambitious, say max 3 at a time, and you place them as I suggested they'll strap nicely against the left inside of the hoodsticks. Tie the bundle together and it to the hoodsticks. Tie down to bumper/bumperettes at front and rear. Tie across to the opposite side at front and rear. If worried about braking-induced forces add a lengthwise tie from somewhere above the passenger seat, lead back over the rear capping and make firm at the bumperette. I can't imagine forces due to acceleration being of much concern!

16ft (5m approx) - have 3 ft. sticking out at the back and the front overhangs the front bumper just nicely to tie down to it.
Reply to
Dougal

OK how about soft top off, Bars on, Wood on top of windscreen frame but tied under the bars.... then at the front the wood tied down to the bumper sort of in an Inverted V (for the rope).

Then the obligatory flappy thing tied to the back end of the wood to stop anyone impailing themselves.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

It'll work but ...

Underslung timber is not making the best use of gravity. If rested on the rear capping it's going nowhere and the risk (albeit small) of loosening ties where it's underslung is removed. Holding the timber up when attempting to secure it could be a problem, too.

Reply to
Dougal

Take rag off completely, fold down windscreen and load them over the tailboard until they are sticking over the front bumper about a foot. Tie them to the nearside hoodsticks to stop them sliding your way on a left hand bend and down to the bumper at the front and down to the grab handle on the rear crossmember. That will give you about four feet sticking out at the back which you can tie a white rag to as a marker and only a foot at the front because you don't want to try and cross the main road with a lot sticking out at the front, safer at the back. No probs carrying a dozen like that for a short distance, I've carried loads of stuff like that but make sure the back marker is clearly visible.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Just chuck em on and drive very slowly, its only a mile!

Icky

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Reply to
icky

If i start taking the rag off it is bound to rain! :)

I have measured the front vent and i reckon i can poke 3 or 4 bits of wood though it, so may try it this way, as it is easier. If not then i can whip the rag off and tie it on as dougal suggests, going for the inside left of the sticks.

Reply to
Tom Woods

I reckon i could leave most of my rag and sticks on whilst folding down the screen!. You only need to split it infront of the front doors, and then the screen should fold down, leaving the rest hanging about (sufficiently attached that it may flap about but shouldnt fall off) Im not sure how willing my screen would be to fold down. It worked 5 years ago when i built it but has been fixed since. i never drove with the screen down, and ought really try it one day! :)

Reply to
Tom Woods

Tom Woods came up with the following;:

Had a mate a few year ago with the same problem. He made a couple of stronger softtop type hoops and bolted them to the front and rear bumpers, then tied the wood to that. Sotftop down and wood tied inboard of the hoops. It worked so well he eventually left the extra hoops on while he made a full length roof rack then welded tubes at each corner so he could simply slot the roof rack and corner steadies into them when he needed and was left with

4" high tubes on the end of the bumpers when he didn't. Worked a treat too.
Reply to
Paul - xxx

Why does everyone want to drop the windscreen?

As Tom points out it's not necessarily going to be easy and it's also not necessary.

There is the further consideration that the window frame is likely to be stronger when loaded from the top and near the side when in the usual position than when lowered. The frame is also supported full width across the bottom in addition to the two hinge bolts.

Reply to
Dougal

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