Loss of traction, how do I check the cause?

It's happened again, the first sign of snow and mechanical problems. Pulling off the lights in Reading yesterday I had a sudden loss of traction which seemed to ring bells in my head. Something similar happened a couple of years ago when the outer splines on the rear diff stripped. I engaged the difflock and traction was restored, so I'm fairly sure that was the cause. Because I had to drive back to Cannock I called the RAC and got the vehicle recovered, but I can't remember how to check for this fault. Jacking up the rear wheels in turn shows a lack of drive to the rear wheels, but what should I be doing, taking the difflock off, leaving the difflock in, putting it in gear or what? Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes
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Hi John

Same thing happened to my defender 90 (200tdi) yesterday. Went to start it and could not get any power. Gear selection is working but as I come off the clutch I am getting a loud grinding noise from the front nearside wheel. If I engage diff lock power is restored. I suspect that I have lost drive to that front wheel but I am not sure what to do next.

If anybody can shed any light on this problem I would appreciate it. Also would it be safe to drive to a garage in diff lock or will I cause further damage.

Any help much appreciated.

Regards Scott

Reply to
news.ntlworld.com

Twas Sun, 28 Dec 2003 12:01:19 -0000 when "news.ntlworld.com" put finger to keyboard producing:

Dead halfshaft?

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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mrniceATmrnice.me.uk
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Reply to
Mr.Nice.

The problem turned out to be a drive flange on the wheel which I replaced a year ago. I think they are designed to be a weak link in the drive train to protect everything else, but changing them only takes about ten minutes if the five bolts haven't seized.

Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes

John

Was it the front wheel or the back??? How much did the part cost and is it easily available - got the mechanic coming tomorrow to have a look - don't want to move it incase I damage anything further.

Regards Scott

Reply to
news.ntlworld.com

On or around Sun, 28 Dec 2003 12:01:19 -0000, "news.ntlworld.com" enlightened us thusly:

with the difflock engaged, all wheels lifted singly should not turn. with the difflock disengaged, any wheel lifted singly will turn.

...

as to the other one, half-shaft or CV joint is my bet.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Reply to
John Stokes

Hi Scott, In this case it was the rear, but the same part is fitted to the front. From memory it costs around £20, if that, including the gasket. The easy way to check is to disengage the difflock, put the car into gear and listen while someone lets out the clutch, as noises underneath often come from a completely different place when listened to from outside.

Last time I replaced both rear half shafts and drive flanges in about three quarters of an hour on the car park at work before driving home. Most of this was taken up in attempting to persuade the circlips to go on using a wire coat hanger and a pair of mole grips. All you need is an11/16th Socket and a pair of circlip pliers, plus something to lever off the plastic cap on the end of the half shaft.

Once you've identified where the noise is coming from by listening and watching if the prop shaft is turning, undo the five bolts in the centre of the wheel and pull the flange out enough to grab the halfshaft. You can also remove the circlip and pull of the flange, but which ever way you do it make sure that the vehicle can't move and scribe a line, or mark with paint, the position of the flange relative to the hub.

If this sounds, difficult, it isn't! These things were built for bush mechanics to work on in the shade of a tree, not in a fully equipped workshop. I've never done the front one, but I would imagine the procedure is pretty much the same, although if it isn't I'm sure one of the regulars will put me right when they recover from ther post Christmas anaesthesia! Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes

Hi John

Spot on batman - that was exactly what the problem was - thanks for all your info. I have now replaced the hub thing but having a problem getting the circlip back on as the splined shaft has moved inwards slightly so that the part with the groove is not visible yet. Any ideas how I can get the shaft to protrude a bit more to enable me to get the circlip back on. Looks like the inner shaft is threaded so I was thinking of putting a bolt in there and giving it a pull - any ideas???

Best Regards Scott

Reply to
news.ntlworld.com

That's what it is for - but I don't know what the thread is. JD

Reply to
JD

On or around Thu, 01 Jan 2004 06:32:54 +1100, JD enlightened us thusly:

doesn't really matter. It only requires a very slight pull, so anything that'll fit in the hole and grip will do. If it needs more than a slight pull, there's summat wrong with it.

you might find that one of the bolts for the driver onto the hub will do it.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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