More 101 Power Loss

I hate to claim victory too soon, but on the basis of a fairly short test drive it _may_ be sorted.

Local mechanic (another 'old school' 'think it through before bolting new bits on' type) found the drivers-side carb had a sticking piston, hence it wasn't drawing enough fuel on with the throttle wide open. As it was 'sticky' we can understand why it was OK with a cold engine. The odd thing is that the carb was replaced to fix this very problem, so I can only imagine that the new fuel pump etc fixed the original problem, but the new carb introduced a new one with very similar symptoms.

I haven't managed a long test drive, but if I get to the camping supplies place tomorrow (about 20 miles round trip) we will set off for Billing with high hopes (and the RAC card)....

Thanks to one and all for your suggestions!

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

On or around Wed, 16 Jul 2003 22:58:31 +0100, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:

I hate it when that happens. You put new stuff on, you don't expect it to have faults.

Once spent ages hunting a misfire, which turned out to be a faulty new spark plug.

I've had similar power loss problems with my stage 1 V8, which runs mostly on LPG and hence gets dried-up (?) carbs. I've had the carbs cleaned and so far (touches wood) it's not had a problem. Good luck

Olly R

Why don't you connect the Facet pump directly to a Jerrycan and see if that works to confirm your theory?

Malcolm

Well, we've disproved that theory! I thought we had it cracked when the sticky piston was found, but no!

I've heard 'vapour lock' mentioned a few times when I've discussed it at Billing, including the boys at RPI. No one seems to have any iron-clad advice for how to fix it though, and as I've not heard any other 101'ers having this issue it seems a bit doubtful.

Still, I've now got a very pretty Mallory distributor ready to go on to replace the rather worn one that is currently in place, and need Warren to fit a new starter motor while he's at it (mine died on route to Billing, and push starting an ambi is a Herculean job), and probably a water pump too (then I think every single ancillary is new). When I drive it down to Sheffield I'll run it with the engine cover off (I couldn't on the way to Billing 'cos I had the dog in the passenger seat) and see if the extra air-flow helps.

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

snip

snip

Tim

Have you by passed the fuel filter on the supply side of the pump? On a GS it is mounted just behind the removable engine cover. Have never seen an Ambi, so can't comment if it is in the same place. Look for a blue(?) filter case approx 2" dia and 1 1/2" deep.

Vapour lock is only usually a problem if you have a long suction run on the pump, and the pipe is in a hot place. Had a Lightweight with a similar pump to yours which suffered in the summer, but the pump was under the seat box which got really hot.

Hope this is of some use to you. I would go along with the suggestion of running the pump straight from a jerry can and pipe it straight to the carbs Good Luck!

I think yours is in the same place as mine. This cured the problem for me - it would be sods law if it causes a new one for you :-(

Apparently mine is a bit higher - don't know why, but that's what the man said.

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

Hi Austin,

All makes sense, but doesn't help much 'cos the 101 has a spill return and is therefore pumping fuel all the time, so it should be self-cooling anyway.

SU carbs going on at the weekend, along with sexy (!) distributor and new starter motor.

Should have just had a new 101 fitted to the existing steering wheel!

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

Have you tried driving around without the engine cover on yet? Its really scary! Especially when you're in third and the engine is roaring away!. It didnt seem to make that much difference to the temperature down there. Ive got a cheap maplins thermometer with a remote probe. On the way down to billing it was cooler down below the engine cover than it was in the cab! More draft i presume (until you stop that is, when it gets hotter under the engine cover than the actual water in the engine is!)

I've tried it, and to be honest I don't think it makes much difference. There's quite a good air tunnel under there with the lid on. I'd like to prove it with a temperature probe one day.

Removing the bulkhead has made the cab a much nicer place to be, especially with the hatch off.

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

About £7 from maplins. You can even wire it up to a serial port and log it on a laptop if you like!. It makes the cab cooler with the engine cover off!.. Which implies that the airflow underneath is pretty good!.

Someone a while back made a comment about using a length of drainpipe to suck some more air out of the engine compartment. Might have a mess about with that at some point, see if it helps anything, but im not sure if it needs it.

I'm getting more and more tempted! :)

On or around Tue, 22 Jul 2003 13:57:53 +0100, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:

you will, before long ;-)

Good place to cook a bit of bacon if you get hungry on the way then!