Off topic - cellulose painting

This is on topic!

There is a paint supremo who lurks in this group. Can't remember who but some of the others will probably be able to supply a web address. Do not do anything until you have heard his wisdom!

Why not a showroom finish? :)

David.

snipped the technical bits

I don't know the answres to your questions ... but I know a man who has a web site that almost certainly does. Take a look at

- makes excellent reading ;-)

Regards Steve G

David French posted ...

Think this might be what you're referring to ..

I quote "Welcome to Vehicle Painting Pointers This site provides information on Coach painting - Various painting tips, including Land Rover Paint Codes and Colours." Hope it helps .. ;)

Thanks folks, I've had plenty of 'conversations' with Stephen before when I originally painted my 130 crewcab Ionian Blue metallic as I was going to go the Tekaloid route before opting for the painful respray using aerosols (which came out unexpectedly well - see

for details!). This is my first attempt at gun/compressor.

The reason for the sub-showroom-finish requirements is borne out of the fact that it gets scratched to hell off-road having such tall sides.

Given the choice, I'd throw it into a pro paintshop to be done, but I can't find one that has a booth taller than the 101's 9 feet :-)

Malcolm.

i used a 50-50 mix throughout, and just made sure the last coat was a good one for the final shine.

mine too wasnt a showroom finish, but it looked bloody good from 10 yards.

you can cut it back afterwards to get a better finish. but make sure plenty of paint gets put on in the first place.

i think the gun should be ok but id test it first, on a bit of plywood or something just to see if it delivers a good enough fan.

hope your not planning on doing it outside at this time of year. a simple rule is, if you can see mist from your breath then its too cold.

hope this helps a tad.

andy

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Hi Malcolm, Do you intend to spray a two-pack lacquer over a cellulose basecoat?,

It is normally NOT advisable to apply twin-packs over cellulose bases mainly because of solvent trapping or solvent incompatibilities, However having said that you can get away with it if your patient.

This depends on the activator/hardener and thinners as to whether it's a summer or winter mix.

The thinning ratio can be different from each paint manufacturer because each paint manufacturer make paint at different consistencies, This means you either need to use MORE thinners or LESS depending on the thickness of the paint when you first start. The hardener tends to come in two formats, one for summer use and one for winter, I presume you have the winter one.

The paint supplier where you bought the paint from should be able to supply (at cost usually about three quid) a metal paint measuring stick that will have the exact markings for their brand of paint and by following their simple mixing guide on the stick will give you exact thinning ratios.

The stick will have markings for single and twin-pack paints and both sides of the measuring stick are used for each material, basecoats or solid colours including thinner, activator or hardener etc.

You can still mix the paint yourself without mixing aids though through trial and error and produce a quality finish by experimenting a little.

In your case you cannot overthin the paint so that's not a worry, it's thick paint that can cause finishing problems if it splatters out the gun too thick. If you intend to apply a lacquer coat over the basecoat finish then again over thinning will not be a problem because the protection is in the lacquer coat not the basecoat.

A 50-50 mix may suffice under the right conditions and temperature but more than likely you'd need to apply more thinners because you are after all only spraying a thin inky layer of paint (the basecoat) and again it's the lacquer that provides the protection, shine, durabilty.

13cfm is about the norm but 7cfm will suffice if you pause now and again to give the compressor a chance to build up.

You definitely need warmer weather to avoid possible blooming in cold or damp conditions.

Do not paint late in the afternoon when temperatures start to drop because this could result in blooming before the surface has time to cure/dry.

Regards,

Steve.

In message [snip]

Steve waves ;)

Well I've been called some things in my life but a paint supremo,

Blush ;-))

I have a bit of cellulose spraying to do on my own car when the weather get warmer in old blighty if I can remember were I put the spray gun ;)

Steve.

[snip]

I remember ;-)

Ouch!