Oil leak ffs. 300tdi

In a rather large way, it is coming from behind the alternator out of sight.

It's dripping down the sump & onto the exhaust & blathering all the underside.

I can't work out where it's coming from, it's not the turbo return union into the block or the sump itself i don't think.

There doesn't seem to be any oil related things there?

There is no oil dripping from the hole in the cambelt housing, so i doubt it's anything in there

Any ideas?

Reply to
Nige
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Is it just dirty engine oil or is it really black, loaded with carbon and smells burnt? Is it 'clean' hydraulic oil?

The power steering pump's not far from where you describe.

Reply to
Dougal

It is engine oil, it's not coming from as far up as the head either, is there some kind of expolded digram of one somewhere?

It is using a lot of oil & it's not burning any at all.

Reply to
Nige

The 300TDi Overhaul Manual is on the Estonian site. It has some exploded views at the beginning:

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Reply to
Dougal

I eventually traced mine to the vacumn pump, they have a tendancy to leak oil from the end.

Reply to
Alex Threlfall

The vac pump is the other side of the engine matey?

Reply to
Nige

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Ta Dougal, is there any oil in between the back of the timing case & the engine block? It looks like there isn't? If i had to guess, i would say top of the rear part of the timing case & block.

I don't think it's the bit with the belt in as there's no oil dripping out from the bottom bung - correct?

Reply to
Nige

Also, a brand new one at that!

Reply to
Nige

Yes, it's where the camshaft comes out of the block and there's an oil seal in the back face of the timing cover. The likely offending gasket (item 2 on printed page 10) is on the same face that has the 'hockey stick' gasket behind the water pump body. It's between the timing cover and the block.

It might be worth checking that all the timing cover bolts are present and tight. It's them that clamp this gasket.

Agreed - this should be dry and if it wasn't you'd see the evidence out the bottom.

Reply to
Dougal

and fitted with all new gaskets etc!!!!

My 200 did a similar thing a short while after I replaced the turbo several years ago, turned out to be one of the oil pipe unions.

-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."

To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

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200TDi Disco with rotten floor 200 TDi DIsco, "the offroader" 1976 S3 Lightweight
Reply to
Simon Isaacs

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This has only happened after i changed the water pump last week, come to think of it the three longer bolts where very oily & shit up. I wonder if i didn't tighten then up enough?

Also had the timing belt done, but this has just manifested itself since my water pump job, those bolt where well manky, i replaced them with new, but could they be hydrualic locked in some way? I didn't exect them to be shit up & oiled up & generally shiity?

Cheers for the help BTW.

Reply to
Nige

Oil cooler return pipe perhaps I've had both RRC and Disco drip a bit when the unions have unexplainably slackened off a mite. Derek

Reply to
Derek

I've only done one of these but don't recall there being any common bolts between the timing cover and water pump. Did you touch some that you didn't need to? The gunge/corrosion on the long pump bolts is from water leaking at the pump cover gasket or the 'hockey stick' gasket. I don't think that any of the pump bolts enter an oil-filled cavity intentionally.

Reply to
Dougal

Have you checked to see if the oil filter is loose. My TD5 did the same and it was a replacement oil filter that just required nipping up with the grabs. Bryan.

Reply to
b.baskerville

On or around Tue, 4 Sep 2007 20:41:36 +0100, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

mind, they do leak, they're a crappy pump.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I dont they do enter intentionally, there are three longer bolts on the bottom of the water pump, they go right through the casing into the side of the block, as they where shit up, my mech mate reckons they where verging on leaking anyway, as the bolt ends should not be oily. He reckons to take off the three bolts, clean out the hole & put *plenty* of thread lock/seal on the bolts & tighten them up very tight. They where tighter than hell to get off, but thought it might have been the crud etc.

If that fails, the whole feckin' timing case has to come off for a quids worth of gasket thats leaking. Joy.

Reply to
Nige

Just smear shit loads of no more nails round the edge of the timing case..

I wouldnt bother too much mate - You'll be getting a different one soon :)

Reply to
Mark Solesbury

Lol!

NO!

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Dipstick tube? Seen them come loose before. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

There shouldn't been any need for 'very tight'. If you stop the oil passing up the theads you've solved the problem: thread cleaning and sealing should do that for you. I'd suggest that you don't try a high strength thread lock - you might want to get this apart one day.

Quid's worth - unlikely at LR prices!

Reply to
Dougal

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