Oil light - any ideas?

"DON" wrote in news:dnf9uk$p1q$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk:

Not a Land Rover, but in the dim and distant recesses of my mind I seem to remember having a similar problem that was solved by replacing the oil pump. But I'm not a mechanic! On that particular vehicle, it was a fairly easy job too. I think it might have been a Peugeot 504 -- but then I don't think it is easy to take the sump off a 504, so....

...and, then again, you say the pressure readings are OK. That's the oil pressure readings, right??

Derry

DON uttered summat worrerz funny about:

If the pressures are right then replace the switch. For what it costs not worth doing anything else till that has been swapped.

Lee D

It's the first thing I'd replace in that situation

Well, thanks for those replies - the father in law was convinced that it 'had to be' bearings. I accept that it still may be, but the combined evidence of the mechanic who fiddles with the car (and lots of other local Land Rovers) and this group has left me with a little more comfort.

Damien

In message , DON writes

I have only ever replaced oil pressure switches on 1998 300 tdi engines. They must have had a bad lot at the factory.

On or around Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:17:39 +0000, Marc Draper enlightened us thusly:

hmmm. summat to think about. We were contemplating hunting a low-mileage late TDi to replace the current one, in due course.

on which subject, sort of...

what are the TD5s like to work on for the average bod without testbook and so forth?

In message , Austin Shackles writes

I have got full diagnostics for Td5 and sometimes you still have to guess !!!!!

That said I don't seem to be having to "open" td5 engines as often as I do 300 td's.

On or around Sun, 11 Dec 2005 22:28:48 +0000, Marc Draper enlightened us thusly:

an earlyish TD5 is another option, in looking for a more-recent disco. When did they retune the TD5 for more low-end grunt? ISTR the originals being rather useless off-idle.

Don't know when the ECU was tweaked, but mine is a MY2003 and it's almost impossible to stall. The secret seems to be not to touch the accelerator - just let the clutch up while on tick-over and let the ECU do the work. Once you touch the loud pedal, you're on your own. Joskin

My 2001 DII TD5 works like that, very handy for low speed maneuvering or crawling traffic jams. Pick a gear (inc low) for the speed you want to go at and just let it trundle along. Starting from stationary in

3rd needs fine clutch control and can be a bit lumpy once moving but reverse, 1st and 2nd are great.

As you say touching the loud pedal without really meaning it or letting the clutch up before the revs have picked up if you have pressed it is the easy way to stall.

...and Joskin spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...

Mine was a MY2001 and was difficult *not* to stall, so do the math, as they say...

MY1999 (first production) and was quite difficult to stall - moreso than a petrol engined motor, less so than the 2.7TD Maverick I had before it.

P.

Except my 2001 is fine but the lag between pressing the go peddle and anything happening can catch you out. Fly by wire is OK provided you realise that the electronics has to work out what you want, then tell the engine, that has to respond. It's not as instant as a stiff wire opening a butterfly valve and pump to squirt more fuel in pronto...