P38 - Is the P for Problematic?

Sell it, quickly, while you still haven't spent too much on it, and while you still have your sanity. I am in the same unfortunate position of being a P38 owner, its the single most unreliable car I have ever owned. It's not just the unreliability that's annoying, its the fact for many of the systems you cant repair it your self, for instance if the air suspension decides to lock itself out, which can be something as simple as a minor pipe leak, or a loose connection, then it has to go to a dealer or specialist to be reset.

The P38 is no more unreliable than any other car - in fact, mine was pretty good and never let me down. You have to remember that, although they are now available at bargain basement prices, this is a 40-50 grand car, and the running costs will be consistent with that. These cars have a lot - which means there is a lot to go wrong, and sometimes it's expensive to fix. It doesn't go wrong all that often, but when it does, it's a shock to the owner who has only paid a few grand for it and is expecting a cheap motor. If you want a cheap car, then my advice is to go for a nice Nissan Micra, which will cost you pocket money to run and be reliable all day long.

FWIW, most of the things that need attention on the P38 are pretty much fixable by the owner with a bit of mechanical nous. There's a huge amount of information on the web, and there's a lot of expertise and ready assistance in this group for those that care to ask. The stuff that can't be fixed on the drive (mainly anything requiring a TestBook interrogation/reset) needs to be done by a dealer for most mortals, but you need to budget for that - again, if you're not prepared to do that, don't buy.

I think the OP has been a bit unlucky, although for 2.5 grand, I think expecting a perfect car was a bit optimistic. But the advice he received was right. Get it running well on petrol before you even think about gas. Otherwise, how will you ever know the engine is running right?

The P38 is a fabulous car, but it is not a poor man's wheels - never was, never will be.

"Steve Shuttleworth" wrote in message news:ogc8l.124554$i snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.ams...

Came across the exact same thing on a DiscoII, it was the in-tank petrol pump. Badger.

Meant to add, the pump had failed due to internal corrosion - most likely caused by condensation buildup within the tank. (heat build-up, no fuel flowing to cool pump as no return line on these models, very low fuel usage to flush the stystem through on a daily basis) Badger.

I had two of them & would buy another tomorrow. Way overstated faults, but they can happen. Keep your eye on stuff & it won't be a problem.

Hi

I had one and had the suspension faults and non start due to keys not coding HEVAC problems with blend motors and yes bleeding the heater rads and all the joys of a P38 - but when its right what a fantastic vehicle even off road. I ended up buying rovacom software to sort my issues out well worth the several hundred pounds. I would get the fuel pressure checked out first off and fuel filter which is under vehicle and is inline>

Good Luck

Gizmo

LR 110 CSW - V8 now oohhh I miss the luxury but I dont wash this apart from opn the doors to hose it out.

Steve,

Whilst I concur with Badger's thoughts I would suggest that before=20 delving too deeply into the fuel tank it might be worth putting the=20 original ECU back in, disabling the LPG system and taking it for a spin=20 to see if the same symptoms occur. It is (I believe) possible that the=20 chip in the ECU you have purchased has been overwritten so that the=20 petrol settings are no longer present.

Gotta be worth a try?

Happy New Year :-)

--=20 Regards

Steve G

Thanks to all for the helpful advice and recommendations. I will look at the fuel pressure, pump and ECU configurations next.

Don't get me wrong about this car, when it drives well, it is simply fabulous and worth all of the money and effort it has taken me so far - I am absolutely determined to see it through and believe I will get there in the end -and yes, I still view it as the bargain of the century!

As an engineer by trade I'm just lucky to be able to do most things myself. Compared with the last couple of projects I've undertaken,he Rangie is quite simple really, just baffling that so many faults could accumulate simultaneously.

Last couple of projects: - ground up rebuild of a TWR Jag V12 XJS, including re-spray, conversion to LPG and 5 speed manual gearbox.

- Remote control nitro engined model helicopter - it took me months to fathom the dynamics of gyroscopic forces on a rotor head, then even more months rebuilding it every time I crashed it.

Hence the appeal of a Range Rover - the helicopter is 4 feet long, so I need a big boot, and I fly the thing in fields (the more remote the better with my skills as a pilot).

Once again, many thanks for your advice - I'll let you know how I get on.

Steve

"Steve Shuttleworth" wrote in message news:ogc8l.124554$i snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.ams...

No more unreliable than a Classic, matey. The first month I had my '93 Classic, I had the same problems as you and in the same order!!

Colin

Years and years of training and experimentation! Never underestimate the Prince of Darkness!

Post corrected.

On or around Mon, 5 Jan 2009 17:11:37 -0000, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

Had that on a disco I and a classic RR as well. But I bet the pump's cheaper to replace :-)

OK, latest is that I managed to rig up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail. The only gauge I could find is actually and acetylene regulator gauge, but it goes up to 3 bar, so I figured that would be enough (I believe fuel pressure should be 32 psi or just over 2 bar). Started the car and the pressure nearly wrapped the needle around the stop! I was expecting to find a fuel starvation problem not this.

Can anyone enlighten me as to whether this would cause the car to run so badly. Does the fuel system have a pressure sensor or a pressure regulator and if yes, where are they.

In anticipation, very many thanks

Steve

2000 P38 4.0SE "Steve Shuttleworth" wrote in message news:ogc8l.124554$i snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.ams...

Where's the fuel pressure stated ?

Steve

I got it from a website -

On or around Thu, 8 Jan 2009 23:18:18 -0000, "Steve Shuttleworth" enlightened us thusly:

Looking at RAVE...

If it's a bosch system then it should be 3.5 bar, and pressure regulati Type Up to 99MY Sagem - Lucas Gems 8 hot wire system, electronically controlled From 99MY Bosch Motronic M5.2.1, electronically controlled

Fuel pump High pressure electrical, immersed in the fuel tank

Fuel pump delivery pressure Up to 99MY 2.4-2.6 bar 34-37 lbf/in 2 From 99MY 3.5 bar 50.75 lbf/in 2

Fuel filter Bosch in-line filter ?canister? type

Same answers I came up with, but the regulation is done on the fuel rail relative to manifold vacuum.

Not on the later systems, they regulate at the pump and there is no return.

3.5 and 3.9 have return and vacuum regulation. Badger.

Also, see my earlier post about moisture building up in the tank. There is always a possibility that this moisture could cause problems with the internal relief valve (corrosion?) in the pump unit, leading to incorrect fuel pressure and running problems. Badger.