protecting the chassis....question

that would work (its how mine is). i'd hammerite the outside before the waxoyl goes in though as the hammerite wont like sticking to the waxoly residue which does well at getting everywhere even if you are only putting it inside!!.

My Discovery is 12 years old and had it for 8. I have done exactly that plus re-waxoyled it twice since and there isnt a spot rust on the chassis. Richard

As an alternative, Steam clean then apply Owatrol which runs into every little gap, once dry then either Waxoyl or Hammerite. (Waxoyl is more flexible, just like the chassis!)

On or around Sat, 02 Jun 2007 10:24:25 GMT, "Cyberwraith" enlightened us thusly:

Personally, I wouldn't put hammerite on anything.

waxoyl thoroughly and protect exposed bits with some species of black stuff, would be my plan.

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Thanks for your advice folks, now as soon as I can get someone under it shall be made so.

I'd favour one of the varieties of Dinitrol over Waxoyl any day.

I used it on my first RR to great effect.

Practical Classics (or similar) did a series of tests on the leading rust resisting treatments many years ago. Typical sort of thing - clean steel, rusty steel plate, salt spray, fresh water spray, rain, undamaged coating of stuff, coating damaged, complete coating, part coating - all the possible options.

Dinitrol was a clear winner.

FWIW

Richard

Anyone used Frost's POR15 and their Chassis black ?

Steve

I have never heard of Dinitrol or Frosts, a bit of research on all the mentioned possibilities I think. At least it is something that I CAN do, LOL. Damn motorbike accidents, mutter, mutter.

yes. used por15 on my red saab - though i havent done enough miles in it to really test its performance properly. por was extranal only and i waxoyled the innards.

did red saab wheelarches and engine bay in por-15 black. still looks like it did when first done after 3-4 years/5000 miles ish. has scratched and came off in a sheet in a few places where i painted over old paintwork and obviously didnt rough the surface up properly. well hard on the metalwork which was slightly rusty.

did my yellow saab (Same model/age car so a fair test!) in hammerite. after under a year and 13000 miles it needed doing again. behind all the mudflaps (bit of a dirt trap) had come off and was just rust. Will have to do it again in another few months as have done another 13000 ish miles and it aint looking that good again. Have some nasty rust coming through one bit of hammerited bodywork under the engine (which is impressive given i had a mudflap curling oil leak for a few months!)

overall, por-15 looks to be better.. provided the surface is good. however it is a lot more expensive and hard to get and if you get it on your hands/arms/face it it still there weeks later!. Im just gonna stick with hammerite and spend a day each summer pressurewashing the underside and repainting it. Still have a bit of POR left so may try a fair comparison and use it on 2 arches out of the 4!

Just to add to your confusion, don't forget Bondaprimer. It's a red oxide primer that contains all manner of rust-repelling and treating additives. It's not the same as any of the other red oxide primers that you get at e.g. Halfrauds.

Painted my trailer project with it 2 maybe 3 summers ago and topcoated with New Holland tractor red. Well since then the NH red has fallen off in sheets - won't stick to the Bondaprimer - but the Bondaprimer is as good as new, well maybe a little duller, despite sitting out in all weathers.

It's good in RR footwells too!

It's made by these people:

Bondaglass-Voss

0208 1778 0071

HTH

Richard

More confusion opportunities!

Isn't it wonderful how much of a beautiful sunny afternoon you can waste sitting in front of a PC in a furnace-hot attic? I suppose the alternative of sitting in the garden talking to SWMBO ought to be given a try tho'

Richard

I'll second that. An excellent product.

Don't look upon it as a rust killer, use Jenolite or something else for that job first. Then apply the Bondaprimer.

It also works well on aluminium (wet sand blast corroded areas first to get rid of the loose corrosion products) and fibreglass.