radiator muff

I have a SWB 1965 Series IIA.It's ex-military so also has an oil cooler. I use it for light work on-road. Come the cooler months it takes ages to warm up as you can guess. I've been thinking about a rad muff but some people have said it doesn't make much difference?!

Tempted to try it out though as it gets annoying when the damn thing is trying to stall for half the journey home. Presume card or similar material over the rad grill is ok. Should I only cover a proportion of the grill or is all of it ok?

Any views on this topic?

Reply to
Shaun
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Twas 29 Oct 2004 08:08:10 -0700 when snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Shaun) put finger to keyboard producing:

I've used them on S3's in very cold weather, they do seem to help and they stop the radiator icing-up. (opening the flap when things start getting too hot, which was never in -30c ambient).

I've seen lots of farmers using a plastic sack, which seems to work.

If iceing is unlikely I'd always leave a gap in the middle so you are restricting, not blocking air-flow.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

Anything shoudl do. It just needs to stop the cold draft a bit.

The proper rad muffs ive seen had a fold down section which you could either fit in place with poppers to cover it totally, or leave it open to let a small bit oif draft through.

I doubt that you could totally block the airflow on a normal LR witout some serios work - there are many more holes than just the ones through he grille! (theres a right draft in the cab of mine!)

Reply to
Tom Woods

The message from snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Shaun) contains these words:

The original as supplied by LR back, I would think, around late fifties or early sixties, as per one I inherited from my Father, who hated the LWB station wagon he had on test at that time for a few months like poison, is a piece of green canvas the width and length of the centre (upright of the T ) on wire mesh radiator grill. It is similar to the canvas used on ragtops, it is seam sewn all round with a tube formed at each end. At one end is a 1/16 th mild steal rod with about 1/2 inch poking out each side, whilst at the other a 1/3 by 1/10 inch metal bar again with about 1/2 inch out each side then folded up about half an inch. the steal rod goes at the bottom and the canvas is rolled around the bar to give the required amount of muffling, when in place the folded up bits protrude forward around the grill and replacing the grill holds the whole contraption in place.

If anyone wants exact dimensions I will hunt it out and post them.

Reply to
Warwick Barnes

I've got an aluminium plate that fits over the grill with hooks at the top, and locates with the NATO towing pin at the bottom. I fit it when the frosts start and it comes off again in about March.

I did worry a bit about totally blocking the airflow but the gap behind the bottom of the grill and the radiator is more than enough to allow the fan to pull air when it's stationary or at low speeds. At high (?) speed (over about 50mph) the fan doesn't seem to pull as well (I assume there's a venturi effect at the bottom of the radiator) and on a warmish day it can start to get a bit warm on the motorway, but never enough to have to take the plate off (the temp guage moves up by about a needle's width). It certainly helps get up to temperature a bit quicker - the heater needs all the help it can get!

Reply to
Bob Miller

I've used a home made muff on my 1968 Ser 2A - if you think of the grille as an upside down letter 'T' - I cut a thin sheet of ply that was as wide as the midde arm of the 'T' plus about an inch either side. Chopped it off about an inch below the hole for the bonnet opening arm.

Unscrew the Makers Plate and the grille drops forward on the two holders at the base, slide the bit of ply in so that it sits between the grill and the steel uprights and - thus - blocks part of the 'T'. Refit the grille.

If it gets too hot under normal use then just take it off and cut anothe rinch or so off the top of it - I found on mine that the two smaller holes in the steel radiator mount (at the bottom where the arms of the 'T' would be) allow enough air in to cool just finein the Winter.

SP

Reply to
Spike

Spike, oddly enough I constructed one the same as yours on Saturday, it fits quite neatly as you describe. To err on the side of caution I've cut two horizontal slots in it to allow some throughput of air. The 'genuine' muffs are about £40 I believe.

cheers

Reply to
Shaun

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