Range Rover Classic Questions

Both the boxes I've had in mine ('90 RR 3.9 auto - first box was the one it came with[1], second a fully recon'd replacement from Ashcroft) do that. Once it's picked up lock-up top it's very reluctant to kick down. This seems to be quite common with the first generation of lock-up overdrive autoboxen: the F*rd Scorpio box that I had retrofitted into the Scimitar I had before did the same thing. You can get it to shift (sometimes) if you stamp the pedal right into the floor and hold it there for entirely too long, but it's much easier to tug it back into 3rd.

[1] Which eventually decided that it liked being in 1st and wasn't going to change out of it, dammit.

Don't know much about RR's but have been asking questions on this group so hope I can give something back!! As I understand it the lock-up facility you refer to on most automatics is the lock-up clutch part of the fluid flywheel (torque convertor), which means that above a certain speed in top gear(?) a physical "lock" is made so that it becomes like a normal manual clutch. This is supposed to improve fuel efficiency etc. due to the more direct drive. AFAIK it should have nothing to do with the kickdown. Certainly this was the case on my old BMW 635. I would guess there is some kind of adjustment for when the kickdown comes in but others more knowledgable will have to answer this. Interestingly I recently drove my brother's auto Pajero, and it seemed to refuse to kick down above a certain speed as well (far worse than a normal auto car) so maybe it's just a big vehicle / low power thing.

On my P£8 it runs for 30s to a minute when first switched on, then for a second or 2 after every one or two brake applications. Think that is normal.

My 1986 classic used to kick down relatively easily at motorwayspeeds, and would then hold 3rd all the way up to 90+. Yours does not sound right.

HTH

David

Like the other respondant, about 20/30 seconds from start. Never noticed it during normal driving.

I had water pouring out of the ultra-sonic sensors above the mirror - discovered missing and loose screws securing the roof panel. Replace/tighten and (touch wood) all's still dry.

On or around 24 Aug 2006 06:09:15 -0700, "mike whiskey" enlightened us thusly:

nope.

check the kickdown cable, and the throttle cable. Throttle cable first, have an assitant floor the pedal (engine off) and check under the bonnet that the throttle does in fact open fully. Adjust the cable if necessary.

then find the kickdown cable which is attached to the throttle linkage in some fashion, and leads down to the passenger side of the 'box. With the throttle to the floor, make sure the kickdown cable is suitably pulled. If you can pull it more by finger pressure on the end of the cable it's probably too slack - it does need a small amount of slack though. Try pulling the cable with the throttle released - you should be able to pull it against an internal spring, then it seems like it's reached the end of it's movement but if you pull harder it goes further, then stops. If it behaves like that, then the mechanical part of the kickdown should be working.

The following is NOT the "book" method for adjustment, it's my theory having owned one...:-)

You want the full-welly position of the pedal to pull it almost all the way out - with just enough slack in it that pressing the thottle pedal can't make the kickdown cable come tight at the end of the throttle movement. In other words, you want to be able to pull the kickdown cable say about 1mm more even when the throttle cable is on the maximum stop. This is to avoid damage to the gearbox internals or the cable.

Set up right, if you floor the pedal at about 55 it should kick down to 2nd, presuming engine is up to it, and take of quite smartly. It should upshift to 3rd soon after (about 60-65 IIRC). Kickdown into third works up to about

80 I think. I have the test procedures somewhere if you want, but some of them are scary...

Thanks all for the advice so far. Mind now at ease over the running of the ABS pump. Kickdown now works, and the beast did 0-60 in about

13 seconds, which seems pretty good to me! Also is much more responsive when applying power for an over take type manouvre.

Rained heavily here last night, and no leaks from the screen, seems to be linked to driving, which i why i am thinking that the screen seal at the top is bad. Probably just bead it with silicon unless there are better suggestions.

Any ideas > On or around 24 Aug 2006 06:09:15 -0700, "mike whiskey"

Screen seal or roof seal?

My money would be on the roof seal and it's not too difficult to drop the headlining front corners to gain access to the roof panel screws.

Mike:

A local dealer friend tells me the Disco I and RR LWB's share the same frame and sub assemblies. Also tells me that the disco floor boards will indeed work.

As for the pump... check all lines going to the air bags for leaks. Sounds like you have a slow leak. Also check the air bags. I found that the front MKII hoses receive the worst abuse being under the hot bonnet.

Good Luck.

On or around Mon, 28 Aug 2006 18:11:33 -0400, "Jack" enlightened us thusly:

RR normal length, in fact. I always thought they should have made a disco LSE, with the extra wheelbase and more space inside. In fact, that's more or less what the latest disco is...