Range Rover - Non Starter

Hi All - this is only my second post on the group but have read many of your posts with great interest and am hoping someone can help me.

My F reg 3.5 EFi manual Range Rover was working fine yesterday but this morning after a particularly cold night it just wont start, there is pertrol getting to the engine and the engine turns over on the key but it just wont fire.....

Any ideas? Any Help would be appreciated.

Malc

Reply to
Landie Malc
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If there is petrol there, and its turning over, then all that left to check is air and lectric. I would kinda guess that air will be ok, (unless there is a small rabbit that has got in, removed the air filter, and spend the night there to keep warm) so it must be lectric.

check that all the cables are onto the coil, its on the passenger side, ontop of the wheel arch, check that the HT lead from the center of the cap to the coil is connected well. Try it again, if it still wont start, then id check the rotor arm and the dizzy cap. I'd mark the Ht leads and the cap with a tippex pen so that they go back right.

If you are feeling brave, you can remove a HT lead from the spark plug end, hold it with something non conductive, and put it near something metal and earthed - get someone to turn it over, and a spark should jump if its working. Be careful though - ive had many a shock before, and there is a hell of a lot of current there!

Reply to
Mark Solesbury

Makes you jump jump jump jump jump "what" jump "is" jump "going" jump "on?" jump "ah" jump "drop" jump "the" jump "plug" jump "lead" jump and there is a hell of a lot of current there!

There is very little current but a hell of a lot of volts. Volts that jolts, mills that kills. "mills" meaning milliamperes or 1/1000ths of an amp.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Well it looks like the electrics are OK, but it apears that I could be wrong about there being fuel getting there.... :S I assumed that the plugs being wet and a feint smell of petrol meant that it was OK on that score but apparently not, I've been told that the smell of petrol should be quite strong if the engine doesnt fire up.... I hope its not the fuel pump again, I only had it replaced a couple of months ago.....

Reply to
Landie Malc

An iffy fuel pump _can_ sometimes be persuaded to function by giving the underside of the fuel tank a good whack with something substantial but not sharp - a bit of timber for example. You'll still have to replace it eventually but ....

Anyway, that was my experience with the pump in my RRC 3.5 EFi auto. Replacement non-branded pump from Autopost was sub-£100 compared with £200+ for genuine, IIRC. By genuine I mean same item in plane box as goes in genuine box from RR!

More recently the block temp sender - not the one for the dash gauge - failed and caused the engine to flood to the point that the plugs would not function!

HTH

Richard

Reply to
Richard

I had a 3.9 that just stopped. Problem was a faulty relay to the fuel pump. was =A310 to fix.

I poured a bit of petrol into the air intake and started it up. I figured if it started it would eliminate the spark side of it without giving me a shock, and confirm that the problem was fuel not getting to the engine. Of course I might have started a fire, but it was just a few mills.

Reply to
madhatchetman

Check the connections and function of overrun fuel shutoff relay mounted close to LH suspension tower. The contacts of this relay need to be closed (relay energised) for normal operation. I've also had problems with the vacuum switch (contacts closed in normal operation) which is in series with these contacts.

If you're not already aware, the fuel pump only operates whilst the engine is cranking or the switch contacts of the air inlet valve (assuming this is the version that you have) are closed. It's a very tortuous cicuit. Be careful not to be mislead into thinking that the fuel pump is dead.

Reply to
Dougal

Corrected connection of vacuum switch. Sorry, just testing!

Reply to
Dougal

On or around 19 Mar 2007 07:35:33 -0700, "Landie Malc" enlightened us thusly:

don't they have an inertia switch?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Where would I find the Vacuum switch?

Reply to
Landie Malc

No inertia switch until the soft dash - c 1994.

Reply to
Dougal

No inertia switch until the soft dash - c 1994.

Reply to
Dougal

To the rear of the right hand (looking forwards) rocker cover on mine.

Reply to
Dougal

ide quoted text -

thanks I'll have a look tonight, presumably my Haynes manual should tell me exactly where and what to look for?

Reply to
Landie Malc

On or around Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:18:08 +0000, Dougal enlightened us thusly:

OK, so not that then. It's a classic cause of no-go syndrome, and I've known them be set off in cars as a result of flying over yomps in the road, for example. Or rather landing...

Reply to
Austin Shackles
:

Mine was an H reg, admittedly a 3.9. It had an inertia switch under the passenger seat.

Reply to
madhatchetman

You're right.

I had assumed that the inertia switch arrived with the air bags and soft dash. It actually arrived as part of the new fuel system and the

3.9 engine for the 1990 model year.

It doesn't affect affect this case which predates both.

Reply to
Dougal

"Richard" wrote .....

You can test power the pump at the wiring plug behind the nearside rear wheel to be certain.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Under the front passenger seat at the back near the transmission tunnel.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

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