Hi All - this is only my second post on the group but have read many of your posts with great interest and am hoping someone can help me.
My F reg 3.5 EFi manual Range Rover was working fine yesterday but this morning after a particularly cold night it just wont start, there is pertrol getting to the engine and the engine turns over on the key but it just wont fire.....
If there is petrol there, and its turning over, then all that left to check is air and lectric. I would kinda guess that air will be ok, (unless there is a small rabbit that has got in, removed the air filter, and spend the night there to keep warm) so it must be lectric.
check that all the cables are onto the coil, its on the passenger side, ontop of the wheel arch, check that the HT lead from the center of the cap to the coil is connected well. Try it again, if it still wont start, then id check the rotor arm and the dizzy cap. I'd mark the Ht leads and the cap with a tippex pen so that they go back right.
If you are feeling brave, you can remove a HT lead from the spark plug end, hold it with something non conductive, and put it near something metal and earthed - get someone to turn it over, and a spark should jump if its working. Be careful though - ive had many a shock before, and there is a hell of a lot of current there!
Makes you jump jump jump jump jump "what" jump "is" jump "going" jump "on?" jump "ah" jump "drop" jump "the" jump "plug" jump "lead" jump and there is a hell of a lot of current there!
There is very little current but a hell of a lot of volts. Volts that jolts, mills that kills. "mills" meaning milliamperes or 1/1000ths of an amp.
Well it looks like the electrics are OK, but it apears that I could be wrong about there being fuel getting there.... :S I assumed that the plugs being wet and a feint smell of petrol meant that it was OK on that score but apparently not, I've been told that the smell of petrol should be quite strong if the engine doesnt fire up.... I hope its not the fuel pump again, I only had it replaced a couple of months ago.....
An iffy fuel pump _can_ sometimes be persuaded to function by giving the underside of the fuel tank a good whack with something substantial but not sharp - a bit of timber for example. You'll still have to replace it eventually but ....
Anyway, that was my experience with the pump in my RRC 3.5 EFi auto. Replacement non-branded pump from Autopost was sub-£100 compared with £200+ for genuine, IIRC. By genuine I mean same item in plane box as goes in genuine box from RR!
More recently the block temp sender - not the one for the dash gauge - failed and caused the engine to flood to the point that the plugs would not function!
I had a 3.9 that just stopped. Problem was a faulty relay to the fuel pump. was =A310 to fix.
I poured a bit of petrol into the air intake and started it up. I figured if it started it would eliminate the spark side of it without giving me a shock, and confirm that the problem was fuel not getting to the engine. Of course I might have started a fire, but it was just a few mills.
Check the connections and function of overrun fuel shutoff relay mounted close to LH suspension tower. The contacts of this relay need to be closed (relay energised) for normal operation. I've also had problems with the vacuum switch (contacts closed in normal operation) which is in series with these contacts.
If you're not already aware, the fuel pump only operates whilst the engine is cranking or the switch contacts of the air inlet valve (assuming this is the version that you have) are closed. It's a very tortuous cicuit. Be careful not to be mislead into thinking that the fuel pump is dead.
On or around Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:18:08 +0000, Dougal enlightened us thusly:
OK, so not that then. It's a classic cause of no-go syndrome, and I've known them be set off in cars as a result of flying over yomps in the road, for example. Or rather landing...
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