Rangie no Startie

Fuel, Spark, Firing order, leaks in the inlet (air sucking past gaskets)

HTH

Lee D

Oh and the rota arm on the bench is one of my all time favorites :-)

With key in the ON position....

Checked for hot at all 4 terminals on the coil. OK

Had wife move key to START position while holding coil wire to earth. NO SPARK.

Ignition module?

On or around Wed, 03 Mar 2004 02:18:32 GMT, "Jack Kerouac" enlightened us thusly:

or immobiliser if it has one.

how much has been apart? is it all wired up correctly?

Lee_D posted ...

Heheheh .. ;)

I stripped it down to the block to replace the head gaskets.

What is the immobilizer?

An Anti theft device which youy need to diasble before starting the engine. You either have one or you don't , I suspect you don't though.

Have all the leads been plugged in again , like the lead from the distributor to the coil / ignition module.... and just to be sure...is the rota arm in there?

Lee D

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I assume you mean you hold the coil HT lead near an earth and there is no spark, holding any of the wires to earth will not result in a spark.

Assuming this is correct then check the low tension wiring to the coil with the wires disconnected, the power is supplied from the engine loom along the amplifier wire (there is a T connection in the loom near the amplifier). The power is fed to the loom through a 7 way round plug and socket that joins the vehicle loom to the engine loom at the left hand wing.

There is no immobiliser circuit.

Check that the ECU coil pickup is connected - this is runs from the air flow meter loom to the coil negative.

Check that the ECU earth wires are secure, these will probably go direct to the battery negative but older models had them connected to the back of the LH cylinder head.

After a rebuild of this sort it's unlikely to be the amplifier module, more likely a connector off somewhere.

The ECU/EFi health can be checked in teh first instance by listening for the fuel pump running for a few seconds after you turn the ignition on. If the pump doesn't run then the ECU isn't "live".

HTH

cheers

Dave White

After running the electrical tests found in the shop manual I was able to determine that the amp module that I buggered while removing the power steering pump had some developed a short opening both legs to the coil with a positive charge.

I failed test 4 per the manual. According to the manual with the ignition in either the on or off position, attach a multi-meter lead to the positive battery terminal and the other to the negative on the coil should yield a 0.0 V. I on the other hand had > 12.0V in both modes.

I have since ordered the amp module relocation kit which places the module next to the coil.

BTW...it was the HT lead wire off of the coil producing no spark when the ignition was placed in the start position.