Re: RaRo buying advice needed

On or around Wed, 22 Oct 2003 08:33:17 +0000 (UTC), "Olly R" enlightened us thusly:

>My V8 LPG can start on gas, but specially when the weather's cold it's >easier to start on petrol, because the LPG system uses warmth from the >coolant to vapourise the liquid gas, so first thing in the morning there >isn't any heat to do that.

only if it's down about -37°C. At all normal UK temperatures the gas will vapourise. What can happen is that moisture in th air can freeze in the vapouriser causing it to jam, hence the heating using engine coolant - the process of evaporation of gas creates a lot of cold. It's also essential rather than just a good idea to run at least 25% antifreeze all year, as it's possible on cold mornings for the internal water passages in the vapouriser to freeze up before the coolant gets warm enough to prevent this, otherwise.

Any subsequant starts can be done effortlessly >on LPG. I have a feeling that it has to be really quite wintry for it not >to want to start in gas at all though (I managed it last January, it had sat >outside for two weeks in the Glasgow frost and started first time, bless >it).

they all should do this. It's simply not true that you *have* to start on petrol - anyone that says you do or that the vehicle "won't" start from cold on gas is either misinformed or the system is out of kilter. In fact, I've tended to find that they start easier in the cold on gas - the gas doesn't condense out of the mixture in the manifold like petrol does

Mine runs gas-only and starts in pretty much any weather. However, on a dual-fuel system it's a very good idea to start it at least once a day (if used daily) on petrol to make sure the petrol system gets some exercise. When i was running the Sierra, which is dual fuel, I used to be in the habit of starting on petrol first thing every morning, and thereafter starting on gas.

Reply to
Austin Shackles
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Ah, so that's it. Thanks!

Will go and slosh some more in this week.

Thanks Austin.

Olly

Reply to
Olly R

On or around Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:53:04 +0000 (UTC), "Olly R" enlightened us thusly:

bastard's leaking, here, costing me a fortune in anti-freeze topping it up...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Austin Shackles" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com

Ah! You have one just like mine then... ;-)

Reply to
aghasee

On or around Wed, 22 Oct 2003 22:25:11 GMT, "aghasee" enlightened us thusly:

reckon it might be the valley gasket. head gaskets were both replaced not long ago, and it seems to be running OK. I put a new rad in, which has cured the overheating and some of the leaks, but not the main one.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Austin> On or around Wed, 22 Oct 2003 22:25:11 GMT, "aghasee" Austin> enlightened us thusly:

"They all do that, sir".

Austin> reckon it might be the valley gasket. head gaskets were Austin> both replaced not long ago, and it seems to be running OK. Austin> I put a new rad in, which has cured the overheating and Austin> some of the leaks, but not the main one.

Mine (1997 4.0 SE) looses water to 0.5" below the fill mark and then stays there pretty much foreever. I have no ide where the leak is and can find no signs of coolant escaping.

--

+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ |Andy Cunningham aka AndyC the WB | andy -at- cunningham.me.uk | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ |
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- Everything you wanted to know || about the P38A Range Rover but were afraid to ask. |+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+"The world has gone crazy: The best rapper is a white guy, the bestgolfer is a black guy, France is accusing the US of arrogance, andGermany doesn't want to go to war." -- Anon
Reply to
AndyC the WB

Possibly just blowing out of the expansion bottle onto the ground?

I've had motors do this, where the fill level is actually a "hot fill" level due to whatever thought processes went on at the design office.

P.

Reply to
Paul S. Brown

An observation on my gassed, but carbed 4.6 V8...

I always try (but often forget) to start and stop on petrol. This is to stop the carbs drying and prevent the piston sticking whenever I turn back to petrol on the odd occasion when I can't get an LPG fill.

However, when I put the new carbs on the damper tops didn't have a 'hole' in them and as a consequence the oil in the pots doesn't seem to have dried out like it used to.

Timing is a b*gger to get right with switching LPG / Petrol. This is true for any engine in my experience. I only now think we have nearly got it right. Another year and who knows :-)

Also, starting on LPG usually needs a couple of 'first turns' on the key (not cranking). LPG doesn't hang around in the carbs for long, so a couple of ticks to get it from the valve to the carbs usually means it will start first crank - as it did this morning, after I'd had to change a wheel - another story, and not easy with my wheels...

Martyn

Reply to
Mother

On or around Thu, 23 Oct 2003 13:46:00 +0100, "Paul S. Brown" enlightened us thusly:

nah, further investigation reveals steam blowing from the left bank rocker cover breather, f you detach the pipe. I suspect an incipient head gasket failure, though there're no obvious running problems as yet. New gasket (and valley gasket and rocker shafts, which need doing) are to be ordered tomorrow.

dunno if I'll bit the bullet and replace the pushrods as well, some of them ar a bit worn. Might do the shafts and assess the other bits. It's only the extreme end rockers which have badly worn shafts - the rest don't seem bad.

Anyone got any theory about why it's a major bad idea to put old rocker arms on new shafts, please let me know...:-)

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:12:54 +0100, Mother enlightened us thusly:

there are several options, really.

Set timing for gas and accept that it's too far advanced for petrol, and put high-octane petrol in it and don't run it too much on petrol;

Set the timing intermediate and lose some power on gas;

Fit an ignition processor which gives you the right timing for both fuels;

Go gas-only, and time it for gas.

On the FFord, I set it at 15 degrees advance, which is OK for gas and about

3 degrees more than it should have for 98 octane petrol - it runs OK on petrol, with a very slight tendency to pink if provoked.

yeah, priming like that is a useful trick. Mind, if the battery is good, you can just crank it 'til it fires... Pre-priming mien doesn't seem to make that much difference.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

The little bits of hardened rocker shaft embedded in the rocker arm bearings will shag the the new shaft in no time.

take off "ospam" to mail me

Reply to
Adrian England

On or around Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:19:56 +0100, "Adrian England" enlightened us thusly:

hmmmm. I wondered as much.

bugger. more expense, then.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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