I'm sure someone mantioned I could remove my injector pump without stripping the timing belt etc. however both the haynes and LR workshop manual are insistant on removing the timing bilt etc.
which is it? and how?
I assume the spindle is keyed, is it at the same point each revolution or can it be a full 180o out?
Are you sure that you are up to this? It just might be cheaper in the long term if you got an expert to do it. You would have certainly saved this bother if you had someone who knew what he was doing change the fuel filter for you. And that was just routine maintenance. My experience has taught me to walk properly before running.
Not wanting to be odd but you may not have followed this or you would know that it is possible that you could try to bleed a self bleeding injector pump and shear a lump of metal off the side of it. It can happen, believe it ;-(
well my Haynes mentions a special tool that holds the Drive cog in position. It says that if you don't have the tool you have to take the timing belt off etc.
I'd like to hear more on this subject as I am contemplating replacing my injector pump and I can walk quite well thankyou. I want to know why the procedure might be ill advised rather than just being told to give it to "someone who knows what they are doing".
I didnt have one of them at the time! :) I drove round for 12 months after doing it, and then replaced the timing belt when i rebuilt the engine. there was nowt wrong with the old one.
Mine is keyed with one of those little half circle keys that go in a cut out (woodruff key?) So there is only one possible posision it can go into
There is also a removable rubber bung on my timing cover that exactly corresponds with the hole, so you can see what youre doing from the other side.
I just undid all the fuel pipes. Took the bung off the timing cover. Then i think there is a nut under it that holds the timing gear onto the driver bit at the end of the pump. undo that Removed the 3 studs holding the timing pump on. then i think it just requires a bit of levering to remove it form the gear, being carefull not to drop the key bit (which should be well wedged anyway).
Repeat in reverse in a few days time when you have it back again.
Unless the LR version differs from my sherpa one?. I know that the timing casing is different (and my timing belt is a different length). Wouldnt have thought it would differ that much though
This is hardly the first fuel filter I have changed. the problem was that air got into the pump as one of the seals on the fuel filter was not seated properly. When I was closing the bleed-screw on the pump the housing sheered off, needing far less effort to do so than I'd have thought possible.
I have never removed an injector pump before. hence I seek advice from those who have.
up until a few weeks ago I had never replaced a clutch master cylinder either, now I have with no problems.
Like I have previously mentioned, the injector pump on these is self bleeding and therefore need not be touched. A single high pressure pipe might need to be cracked off to get it running though but this is easiest done at the injector end.
Yep, and if I knew the answer I would tell you but this job is not to be trifled with. It's not a huge job but not one that I would have the patience for myself. If you enjoy such things, give it a go and I hope you will have all the answers and the job goes well and without expensive mishaps.
The DPA pump as used by Series and 2.25 defender, the ones with vertically mounted pumps, did need bleeding. The DPS fitted to 2.5 engines and the Bosch fitted to TDi are self bleeding.
That kind of confusion causing expensive mistakes is why I prefer to leave some jobs that are way outside the normal service schedule to people that do that kind of thing on a regular basis.
I have done it on 2.5 turbo diesel with a special tool which hold the pump sprocket in position while the pump is removed. I think the tool was only £40 or £50 new.
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