Would some kind person tell me how easy it is to replace a leaky steering box on a Defender. This is a box that was replaced 18 months ago for the origional that lasted
7 years ??John H
PS no wind ups please I am a vulnerable beginer :-))
Not very difficult - but make sure the new box has the drop arm on it, as getting the arm off the old box is likely to very difficult. You will need flare nut spanners for the pipes and fairly large sockets (can't remember the size) for the mounting bolts and a puller to part the ball joint from the drag link.
JD
Ta JD
Is it difficult to bleed the system after the change ? Is it possible to hire pullers or not do you think ??
John H
Bleeding should not be a problem - the sort of tie rod end puller you need can be bought cheaply enough that I doubt you can hire them, but of course that depends on your local situation. JD
The drop arm will either fall off all by itself, or it will be a bugger. If you are going to try a puller, make sure it's a hugely strong one - even then they have been known to break. If you hire one, don't break it!. Most times, getting it *really* hot will do the trick, but sometimes you just have to give in and buy a drop arm too. Avoid reconditined units, some of them are appauling - snapped sector (ouput) shafts, nasty seals etc. To bleed it, just open the bleed screw on the top (NOT the adjuster bolt!) with the engine running until fluid comes out - it will alwys be a bit airated, but shouldn't spit. Oh, and make sure the steering is centred, there is a key spline too (I think, it's late...), so don't hammer the new one on if it wont go relatively easily.
Richard
My reference to a puller was to remove the drag link - I have suggested getting a new box with arm included as in my experience gettting the arm off is almost impossible for ordinary mortals. Of course if the arm just falls off ...... the splines on it may be worn! JD
Why use a puller to get the drag link off - nasty things...... hit the end of the end of the drop arm (or steering arm or whatever) on the end with a lump hammer - the track rod end will come free without damaging the boot - and it's a hell of a lot quicker!
Richard
Depends how good a shot you are with the hammer whether the boot is damaged or not! But this is an alternative method, as you say.
JD
The Sykes Pickavant hydraulic pullers work very well for this job - I haven't failed to remove one yet (although sometimes with the application of a *little* heat too). Watch out tho - if they're tight the puller and pitman arm will leap across the workshop when things finally part company.
Seconded. But you want a decent sized hammer, a good aim, and no tendencies towards wimpiness if you want to succeed.
I've got the cheaper SP mechanical pullers - a gentle tap with a lump hammer when the pressure is on will often result in things flying apart with a big, satisfying bang.
I'd get the hydraulic one if I did this sort of thing more often, but unlike EMB I only play with mechanicals of my own, not other peoples so cannot justify the $$'s.
On or around Thu, 24 May 2007 18:00:55 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:
yeah. I've seen ones that need a full-blooded clout with about a 4lb hammer. I have actually got one of those simple forked wedge things now, and bearing in mind that mostly I'm pulling the joint to replace it, it's a lot easier.
Second-hand tool shops are lovely places - I acquired one of my SP pullers for about NZ$100 (£35 for the homelanders amongst us) which was affordable.
The better Chinese copies of the SP pullers are pretty good too and are available for about twice that amount - which I consider makes them cheap enough for a DIY car repair enthusiast.
Oh soddit - I shouldn't have gone to the tool site and checked the price of them. It's led to me thrashing my credit card and buying NZ$500 of toys I didn't really need :-)
FWIW:
I hired a genuine LR puller from my not-so-local tool hire shop to change the drop arm on my RR. I know it to genuine because the bod bought it from LR to work on his own LR - or so he told me. The significant thing about it was that it was massive and had only two legs. I tightened it up as much as I dared without result, then wacked the end of the threaded rod with a lead faced hammer, still no result. :-(
Left it on overnight and thumped it in the morning - result was a satisfying bang and a puller plus drop arm sitting on the ground :-)
The hire shop is in Addington, S.E. London if that's of any use.
Richard
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