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replacing crank pulley

I've got myself a replacement 2.25 petrol (as my other one is about to die). The crank pulley (where the fan belt sits) on the replacement engine is broken so I need to get the one from my old engine.

When I try to undo the nut on the new engine, the engine turns (its not been installed yet). So am I right in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the old one from the old engine whilst its still in the vehicle by leaving it in gear so I can undo the nut, then waiting until the replacement engine is in and bolted to the gearbox before I can remove and replace the broken one?

Paul

Reply to
Pacman
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The usual way of locking the engine is to wedge something into the starter teeth on the fly wheel. A bit of 1inch angle iron works well or a ring spanner with the ring hooked over the teeth. Whatever you use, turn the engine slowly anti-clockwise (use the crank puley bolt) until the "wedge" stops it turning.

An air impact wrench will also normally free the bolt without having to lock the flywheel.

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

If you remove the starter motor you can jam a screwdriver into the flywheel cogs to stop the engine turning - works much better than leaving in gear etc. anyway as there's no slack in the drive chain/brakes to absorb movement

Reply to
Bruce Tanner

And make sure you know which direction is the correct one for loosening such a nut. It *might* be a left hand thread depending on the direction of rotation of the shaft...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

There 'normal' right hand threads on all landrovers and the torque seting is

200ftlbs on the crank pully (2 1/4). Having said that, I tightened mine and all others I've done with a solid 1/2" drive bar which I've hit with a lump hammer. Never had one come undone. Toby
Reply to
TVS

I did mine up with a ~3 foot powerbar with the sump off and a crow bar wedging the crankshaft to stop it from turning. I'm pretty sure i put some thread lock stuff on it too. I remember jumping on it to get it tight. It still managed to come off somehow. The pulley has chewed the key up and scored the end of the crank shaft a lot too :(

Reply to
Tom Woods

Indeed, I've tried the "drivetrain" method of wedging before when doing the propshaft, the drivetrain absorbed the hammer blow I gave the spanner and threw it straight back at me. The spanner must have flown about 15 feet. I'd hate to have that happen with a 3' breaker bar!!

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

At the garage we had a 300TDi come in with a sheared woodruff key too... amazingly it still ran! A new pully and key was fited and there wasn't any movment on the key way fortunatly. That one is one we've never seen befor ether, been main dealer serviced all its life... Toby

Reply to
TVS

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