Resolved: difficult cold starts 300Tdi

Hi all,

A while ago I asked for suggestions about what might have suddenly started causing me trouble when starting my Disco 300Tdi from cold. (It started perfectly when hot.)

Lots of helpful tips came in about ways to check the glow plug system, including the relay.

Some people suggested we look more broadly and consider the fuel system.

I came to suspect the fuel system - and learned that sometimes the o-ring on the sedimenter can twist, causing leaks, and that the fuel tank sender can rust (along with the boot floor) allowing air in without neccessarily showing fuel. [Mine had rusted a lot, but changing it didn't fix the problem.]

But it was none of these things. And I'm damn glad I finally found the problem.

Turns out the back of the system holding the TIMING BELT is out of alignment, and my belt - at just 45,000 miles old! - had almost broken up. The timing was out by one or two teeth. I was amazed that this seemed to be sensitive to whether the engine had recently been running - but it was.

Thought you'd like to know since it was the LAST thing I checked :(

Thanks again for all the advice previously.

Kieran Turner (and hard-worked 300Tdi Disco)

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Reply to
Kieran Turner
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kieran .

45,000 miles is way to far before changing 300tdi timing belt, should be done 20,000 i think in reality .

i have changed mine twice in 12,000 miles and the previous belt had lost 6mm width of belt in 12k miles , i had to do something about it and find out the real source of the problem, which i did too !!

the modification kits to cure timing belt wear dont actually guarantee curing the problem .

all they seem to do is add a flanged crank gear and a different idler pulley in an attempt to stop the belt walking forward , but the belt walks OFF the front of the injector pump gear and if you dont align this gear properly all will probably be in vain fitting a modification kit .

basically what you need to look at is the injector pump bracket on its rear that bolts it to the engine , there is a bump of material on the bracket that makes the injector pump push away from the cylinder block at its rear, thus the belt walks forward and is only stopped from coming off by the timing cover .

i found my pump gear was running out by 0.015" , ie the gear was

0.015" farther away from the rear timing cover when it was measured at the most outboard area of travel compared to 180degs opposite side .

i filed the bump off the pump bracket , this allowed the pump to sit square on the rear timing cover and not pushed away from engine . with no belt installed i tightened the bolts from the pump bracket to engine and also from bracket to injector pump.

after fitting new timing belt i checked the alignment of pump gear again with a dial indicator and it was then running true .

if you do check and adjust this make sure you measure carefully because there is almost 0.120" thou endfloat on the injector pump shaft and if you rotate engine the gear needs to be sat in its seated position or youl get false readings .

there is a lower belt torque now also, i think it was 9ft/lbs i used , torque it once, slacken off belt tensioner and torque again is best option .

although landrover now say only torque up the belt tension once and be done .

you can drill an 8/10mm hole at top of timing cover , facing in line with front of belt, and then can measure depth in hole of belt to see if belt moves forward, the timing cover will have rubbing marks on it so is easy to work out where to drill hole , no need to plug hole because its running dry inside the iming belt housing , although a rubber grommet is easy to buy and fit . .

in 2500miles mine hasnt moved so far .

bear in mind that pump timing will alter very slightly every time you change a timing belt, and full load fuel metering may need adjusting a little , especially if performance drops off .

when you drive them everyday you will notice any change in performance easily .

in fact i had to unscrew my full load metering adjustment on rear of injector pump by a fair amount after installing new belt .

cheers , ian

Reply to
m0bcg

Have heard that the torque settings from LR are incorrect and when applied distort the casing causing wear ??

Reply to
Hirsty's

Apologies for previous top post

Reply to
Hirsty's

Its always the last thing you check! ;)

Reply to
Tom Woods

Mine certainly won't be going more than 36,000 before I check it again! I'd been planning on around 50k as a safe compromise... oh well.

Why have Land Rover never revised this estimate downwards in the light of real-world vehicle evidence?

K
Reply to
Kieran Turner

On or around Sun, 23 Oct 2005 02:40:27 +0100, "Kieran Turner" enlightened us thusly:

If I were being cynical, I'd say because the typical failures happen out of warranty.

They did of course have a succession of mods to the engine which are supposed to address the belt wear issue.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In message , Kieran Turner writes

After I have fitted the mod kits (if needed) I change them at 60,000 miles and have never been caught short yet. Some are now in their 3rd belt with no breaks.

Reply to
Marc Draper

I'm told by the local (Landie specialist) garage that "kit 1" is no longer available, but that "kit 2" which has the internal parts (tensioner, gear) but not the new cover, is still available.

Sorry to be rather less than technical on that description of kit contents ;)

Does anybody know if the "full" conversion kit is still available anywhere?

Cheers, K

Reply to
Kieran Turner

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