RR P38 V8 Service : when are the big ones ?

Hi all,

I'm planning to buy a RR 4.6 HSE, and I'd like to know how the services are planned. How many miles/kilometers between each service? When are the Big Ones ? Just so I can figure the right mileage to buy one !

TIA

-- Henry! '95 2.5 DT RR (for now...)

Reply to
Henry!
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Every 6 and 12K, with the really big ones at 48K, 96K etc. With the high fuel consumption, they are often bought by low-mileage users, so may have been serviced by time rather than miles, and the actual mileage may be irrelevant. These vehicles LIKE main dealer servicing (to hold onto the resale value if nothing else), and a FDSH is very important. If there is evidence that servicing has been neglected or skimped, walk away, unless it's very cheap - and then expect to spend what you saved on getting it put right. The 48K service is over

500GBP ISTR, if that is relevant to you, the intermediate ones proportionally less. TBH, I would ignore when services are due, and concentrate on getting one that's been looked-after, major service on the horizon or not. After all, a service due is a known quantity (perhaps use it as a negotiating lever) - a neglected RR is a bottomless pit! No. 1 piece of advice (from experience) is - get one with a warranty, preferably 12 months from a main dealer.

Good luck. I love mine, and wouldn't swap it even for a new RR. They are fantastic vehicles, but tend towards niggly faults which can cost a lot to put right. Owner maintenance isn't always an option.

HTH

Rich

Series 2a RR 4.6 HSE V8

Reply to
Richard Brookman

Hello Henry.

I have just sold my RR 4.6 HSE and the maintenance is carried out in the following way:

Each 10.000 Km: I Change oil motor and filters and revision of levels of liquids. About 200? in an official service Land Rover in Spain

Each 20.000 Km: I Change oil motor, change spark plugs, gearbox oil.etc. About 400?

Each 40.000 Km: Main Service. About 900?

Regards

"Henry!" escribió en el mensaje news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...

Reply to
Ascot

"Richard Brookman" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com...

Thanks a lot Rich, this really helped me.

I have seen some good ones (even special editions like Westminster or Autobiography) around 20,000 Euros (around 13,000 GBP, IIRC) with around

65,000 km (should be around 40,000mls).99 models. I really enjoyed the 2,5 DT, but it's my wife's second car that she bought for me, and now she wants to sell it. So, it's a good opportunity to buy a V8 !!! I heard that the V8 is bulletproof if well serviced. I'll always be asking for a COMPLETE maintenance book. You are right about what has been done being more important that what is to be done, but if the Range needs a big service after the sale, then I have to look after the price. Thanks again,

-- Henry!

Reply to
Henry!

"Ascot" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...

Gracias ! What is weird is that it's the same frequency for the diesel engine...

-- Henry! Q. Why do some bands even have bass players? A. To translate for the drummer.

Reply to
Henry!

Far from it. The 4.6, 4.0 and 3.9 both tend to suffer from cracked liners / porous blocks. This seems to affect Range Rovers far more than Discoverys, due to the different engine management setup.

I'd be very nervous buying a P38 / late Classic V8 Range Rover on its original engine... Did Land Rover ever fix this, even on the later P38's?

Reply to
Tim Hobbs

No worries. Mail me off-group at snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com if you want to take the conversation further.

Yes and no. As Tim has said, there is an issue with porous blocks on the

4.6 especially. Any hint of losing water either during a test drive or otherwise, and you walk away fast. Having said that, new short motors are available from such as RPI - if you got a "porous" 4.6 cheaply enough, it could be worthwhile.

Aside from this issue, general opinion seems to be that if they are correctly maintained (especially oil changes), they can go to 200K miles with no probs.

Reply to
Richard Brookman

I'm due for my 24000 mile service in a few hundred miles, and I was quoted

813GBP by a main dealer, being told that 'it's a major service'. It's a 2002 4L auto petrol Westminster.

I knew it wouldn't be exactly cheap, but 813GBP is a lot more than the

300GBP that non dealers offer. Why the big difference? Just to pay for their showroom water features? I wouldn't mind if it were a slight increase over the non-dealer, but 272% is a bit extreme don't you think? It's nearly a months petrol... :-)

I'm not sure whether to bite the bullet, or just go for the more attractive non-dealer service.

Neil

Reply to
Chaos Illumination

That's not the general opinion around here...

I've no experience with porous blocks, but can report personal experience of a problem with the liners moving in the block. The top of the liner is very thin (it flanges out), & a gap here means that there's a path between the combustion chamber & the cooling system. The cooling system gets pressurised when the engine's running ( & so loses coolant). When she ain't running, the built-up pressure forces coolant back into the combustion chamber, producing a very clean bore (good?), & poor starts (not so good). Obviously, the longer this goes on, the worse it gets, with attendant overheating problems & eventual damage. I was told this was a common fault, on 3.9's, 4.0's & 4.6's, & that the cure was a new block; refitting liners doesn't seem to last- it has to be done with heat, & that usually messes up adjacent bores.

My vehicle was serviced regularly, btw.

'98 RR 4.0 bog standard new motor after 83,000 k's (thanks LR Australia!)

Reply to
Natalie Drest

"Tim Hobbs" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

The information I have on this topic, coming from other NG an forums, is that the porous engine is suupposed to be on the early P38 models (pre 99). The cracked liner is however a 'known problem'. Let's just hope...

-- Henry!

Reply to
Henry!

"Chaos Illumination" a écrit dans le message de news:

41475f6b$0$268$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...

OUCH ! That hurts ! Of course, the only good thing that I see in having the service done at a Land Rover Dealership is that it's good for resale value. That's for all cars... Now for a RR, with all the known reliability problems, I tend to think that LR servicing is a must. That's what I would ask buying one, anyway. Of course, it's better to have a well 'home' maintained vehicle than a por 'dealership' maintained one, but unless you're good in mechanics, it's hard to tell

-- Henry!

Reply to
Henry!

That's why I said "Any hint of losing water either during a test drive or otherwise, and you walk away fast." Sorry I wasn't more specific.

Rich

RR 4.6

Reply to
Richard Brookman

"Richard Brookman" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com...

By the way, how do you recognize water from the engine and water from the AC condensation ???

--Henry

Reply to
Henry!

"Henry!" wrote

Water from the aircon is deposited under the car, roughly in line with the footwells. In hot/humid weather, there can be an alarming amount, but it will be pure water - taste it if necessary to confirm (yes I have done this).

Water from the engine, if it is escaping, will be green with antifreeze (taste test not recommended). However, with the V8 problems outlined above, it won't escape visibly but will be lost within the engine, into the combustion chambers and out of the exhaust. The usual symptom will be a persistent loss of water level in the system rather than an obvious leak. My test would be: check water level in overflow tank, good test drive to get thoroughly warmed up, allow the engine to cool, then check water again. If there is any water loss, there is a problem.

HTH

Rich

Reply to
Richard Brookman

"Richard Brookman" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com...

Well, many thanks, this has been very helpful. I'll keep y'all posted whenever I find the real diamond (and as soon as I sell the diesel one, of course ! )

-- Henry!

Reply to
Henry!

The cooling system pressurisation problem can be detected thusly: Engine: cold Expansion tank coolant level: a bit low Open expansion tank lid (slowly); listen for hiss. If water level rises, & an obvious depressurisation occurs (air rushes out), the system was pressurised. Probable (in my opinion) cylinder liner problem. Back away from prospective purchase 'yes, thanks very much, i'm afraid I have to be off now'

or ask them to throw in a new engine

Natalie

Reply to
Natalie Drest

On or around Sat, 18 Sep 2004 15:43:06 +1000, "Natalie Drest" enlightened us thusly:

the engine does have to be genuinely cold though, as the system will stay pressurised for some time after it's at operating temperature, even if the engine only feels "warm".

by the same token, one that *isn't* pressurised when hot is equally likely to have some kind of problem, in that it should be.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Austin Shackles" a écrit dans le message de news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Well, thanks a lot to both of you. I am now a specialist ! No kidding, this will certainly help me in finding the right car. Thanks again !

-- Henry!

-- "Pleasure in a thing of beauty is the essence of a good life." Zino Davidoff

Reply to
Henry!

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