S3 Idling problem 2.25 Petrol

Been stood for 2 weeks without starting. Starts Ok with full choke (both of 'em???) But it wont idle? Let off the accelerator & it just splutters out even if I have run if for 5 minutes at fast tickover (with my foot) Last time I used it all was well. It runs well enough & smooth, but the tickover aint having any of it.

Any ideas?

Nige

Reply to
/\/ / & E
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Probably the wrong answer but mine would need more than 5 mins warming up. Until it was warm it will not idle without the choke.

Other than that check the dizzy, any damp got in?

Nigel

/\/ / & E wrote:

Reply to
Nigel

last s3 i had, had a webber and it used to block its idle jet

Reply to
Mr Jolly

Didn't seem to want to idle with the chokes out either. It's got 2 of the things for some reason.

Yeah, my thoughts to be honest as the inside oif the roof was dripping condensation. I'll take some to work tomorrow.

Ta

Nige

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"

Reply to
Nige

How do i identify a weber? & if it is one, how do i clean it?

Ta

Nige

-- Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"

Reply to
Nige

I'm a bit rusty on s3 stuff it was 8 years ago:O) got a diesel 90 now. I think crap came in down the air intake pipe ,went into the float bowl and blocked the jet.

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number 26, and blow it out with compressed air . that's what it was when mine did that, but mine was a 73. I haven't seen the other type of carb as mine had a Webber already

Reply to
Mr Jolly

Pretty much standard behavior for mine in winter, I have to juggle with the throttle every time I come to a stop. I just put up with it at the moment, interested to see if this is remediable.

Reply to
Larry

It's probably running on a Weber carb. For starters, one of the chokes will not be connected to anything (probably the one on the steering column). They were an aftermarket conversion, and the choke cable went in at the other side to the original zenith carbs, and hence wasn't long enough. There's also a chance that one is linked up as a hand throttle. Have a look at where they go on the carb and work it out.

Webers are quite prone to icing up in cold/damp weather generally causing crap idling. When you next get the symptoms have a look at the top of the carb / put your fingers on to see if its freezing cold. Being light with your foot helps avoid icing while the engine warms up.

When you've properly warmed it up then you can asses further what the problem is. If when slowly releasing the accelerator you find the engine gradually slows down until ticking over too slow and dying then its the idle adjustment - wind the idle scew in a bit. If its got a dead spot below mid throttle openings then its probably got a blocked idle jet - quick job to strip down and clean out the carb.

Andy

Reply to
Andy Warner

Hi,

2 choke cables - I've got those too !

When the carb was changed from a Zenith to a Weber the choke cable wouldn't reach round to the required new position.

Fitted a second cable on the bulkhead instead, leaving the original on the steering column in case I ever change back.

Cheers

Andrew

things for some reason.

condensation. I'll take some to

Reply to
Diogenes

Having the same trouble with my S3 2.25 as well. Having been up all night learning how carbs work I am convinced my Zenith 36IV has a blocked idle jet. Or a leaky fuel line that's letting in air. Or something else altogether. Anyway, I am going to try overhauling the carb this weekend, I'll let you know how it goes...

Reply to
Dan Burdge

A leaky fuel line will not "let in air" in a manner that will affect idle. A loose or damaged inlet manifold or manifold gasket however will cause an air leak that could give these symptoms.

The quickest way the test this is to get a vacuum guage and check what the manifold vacuum is a idle.

Reply to
EMB

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